WRONG type of Conditioning!

Conditioning affects all of us in normal life and as it relates to our dogs.  It is important to understand conditioning and how it works in order to best control it when it comes to our canine companions.

First, let’s get the technical “speak” out of the way and then we can talk in more layman’s terms.

There are different types of conditioning when it comes to behavior.   We normally refer to two types of behavioral conditioning when it comes to our dogs; classical conditioning and operant conditioning.

Classical Conditioning:  Is a form of learning that involves presentation of a neutral stimulus along with a stimulus of some significance.  The neutral stimulus is a stimulus that does not normally affect the behavior of the respondent.  The significant stimulus is a stimulus that evokes a natural response.  Responses elicited by classical conditioning are not maintained by consequences.

Operant Conditioning: is a form of learning during which an individual learns to modify the occurrence and form of its own behavior due to the association with a stimulus.   This is modification of voluntary behavior.  Naturally occurring consequences can reinforce, punish, or extinguish behavior and are not always delivered by people.

In Layman’s Terms:

Classical Conditioning is training with a marker like a certain word or a clicker.  It is pairing something like a treat, with something that in the beginning is

Classical Conditioning

not understood or known by the dog.  By pairing something that the dog would naturally want (the treat) with something that the dog doesn’t really know (the clicker) it conditions the marker (or the clicker) to mean essentially the same thing as the treat after a period of time.  Therefore the marker can be used to reinforce desirable behavior.

Operant Conditioning is the dog learning (sometimes on his own) what is reinforcing and what has negative consequences in his own environment.  This can involve human/dog training or it can be something that is self-learned.

I believe that both of these types of training are important.  I really like classical conditioning because I can better control my dog, his learning and his responses.

But, for the purpose of this article I want to focus on operant conditioning and how it can negatively affect your training without you realizing it.

Often bad behaviors or behavior problems start out small.  For whatever the reason, your dog finds the behavior rewarding.  He may begin barking and he learns that he enjoys the sound of his own voice, or he sees the mailman leave after barking threatening him.

An intact male dog may begin to mark his territory inside the house.

If you notice the behavior in the beginning, it is usually fairly quick to change.  Instead of the behavior being rewarding for the dog, you can change the behavior, or restrict the behavior.

For instance if I have a dog that is constantly looking out the window and barking I am going to restrict his access to that window and if I have a dog marking or urinating in the house I am going to keep him on a leash with me and restrict his access to my house.  At my house these things are privileges that need to be earned.

I am Going to Change Bad Behavior Before it Becomes Habit

But, I do my best to nip bad behavior in the bud the moment I see it.  Even if I think  it is a little cute (begging or tail chasing) I must not encourage the behavior or it will become harder to eventually fix.

I recently had an older client at my house with her 4 year old poodle.  He was barking incessantly.  The problem was that her husband had originally thought it was cute when he barked at the front door and at noises on the TV and rewarded the behavior by encouraging it.

The dog learned that this behavior was appreciated, so he began to show it all of the time.  Soon he was barking when a leaf hit the ground, or when his owners moved the furniture and eventually it wasn’t cute anymore.

However, at this point the behavior had become conditioned.  He had been showing the behavior for so long it has become second nature.

The same is true with allowing your dog to urinate or defecate in your house for a long time.  Instead of being a behavior problem, it becomes a conditioned behavior.

A conditioned behavior is like a habit, whether it be good or bad.  But, habits are hard to change; especially well established habits.

Old habits are hard to break and new habits are hard to form because the behavioral patterns we repeat are imprinted in our neural pathways.

The basal ganglion (in the brain) appears to remember the context that triggers a habit, meaning they can be revived if triggers appear.

This is why it is sooo important to create good habits and change the behavior problems immediately when we see them.

People often ask me “Is he too old to learn”?  to which I vehemently say “NO! Dogs are never too old to learn!”

But learning is much easier if you are not breaking a bad habit!

Which means you can probably teach your 5 year old Chihuahua to “shake” hands a lot faster than you can re-train him not to bark at everything that moves.

What Can You Do?

Condition and Reward Good Behaviors to Form Good Habits!

Make sure that you are conditioning the good behaviors that your dog shows.  Encourage him to lay down, to come when called, to be quiet, and to potty outside.  After a period of time good behaviors are also conditioned.  Wouldn’t it be nice to know that your dog is “conditioned” to come to you when you call him?  But in order to achieve this you have to put in the work and effort to consistently reward it.

In order to achieve conditioning or habit forming, you must be consistent with your reward.  You must also fairly consistently or regularly reward these behaviors.  You can’t condition the behavior and then never reward your dog for it again or the reward and the habit will extinguish or go away!

Remember that many naughty behaviors your dog is showing are self-rewarding.  He doesn’t need you to reward them because he is rewarding himself and so conditioning happens very quickly!

Be very careful what behavior you reward!  You may think, initially that you want your dog or your puppy to bark but I guarantee after a time you will want some quiet and silence on command.  You don’t need to reward barking, most often it is a self-rewarding behavior, and you do want to reward QUIET!

IF Your Dog Has a Bad Habit

Be patient!!!  It is very difficult to change a bad behavior that has developed into a habit!

You must be willing to be almost completely consistent or at least aim for 95% consistency and reaction!

This consistency is what helps to form a new behavior.

Think of your dog as a former drug abuser or someone trying to quit smoking.  Be patient!  Bad habits don’t change overnight.

Don’t give up!  Your dog is worth your time and effort and he needs you to be resilient and patient!

A favorite quote of mine that applies to constant, consistent and positive dog training:

Shoot for the moon. Even if you miss, you’ll land among the stars.

Don’t settle for the bare minimum or give the least effort you think

you can get away with. If you’re going to do something, do it to the

best of your ability! 

Understanding Conditioning in Dog Training is a post from: Dog Obedience Training Blog

Is This Your Dog?

I work with a lot of clients and most of them suffer from this syndrome.  Their dog does something wrong and they shout “NO” or “BAD DOG” at the top of their lungs but the dog barely acknowledges his owner’s presence much less his anger.

When pressed or called the dog runs around the house as if he is deaf and can’t be caught.

An angry game of dart and evade ensues until the dog owner is exhausted and the dog finally gives up.  At this point there is usually some aggression on the part of the dog owner and so everyone loses!

Does Your Dog Respect the NO command?

For many the answer is “no”.

Why?

You can Only use the NO command if You Catch Your Dog Misbehaving NEVER AFTERWARD!

People overuse the NO command almost more than any other command.  The second most overused command would probably be COME.

When you overuse a command, it begins to lose its meaning!

People say it “No! NO!  Bad Dog!” but nothing really happens.  They don’t make the dog listen, and so therefore the dog learns that these words mean nothing.

The bad thing is eventually the owner gets angry enough to have some follow through but at this point the dog is no longer associating the initial behavior with the reprimand.

The owner hunts the dog down and reprimands him, but leaves the dog totally confused.  You can never reprimand a dog AFTER the behavior, he simply won’t understand!

The only thing the dog really learns is that his owner is scary sometimes and then tries to avoid him when he sees his level of anger escalate.

This avoidance, exacerbates the problem and makes it even worse!  The owner gets angrier and the dog continues to try and avoid and evade his infuriated owner!

You see, dogs aren’t capable of reasoning like we humans are.  A human would say to himself “Gosh, mom is REALLY mad and I am going to have to deal with her sooner or later…sooner will be less agonizing than later.  I am liable to get in more trouble if I don’t come or listen now!”

But a dog doesn’t realize that EVENTUALLY he is going to have to come to you or surrender.  He thinks he can stay away from you forever, or at least until your mood changes.  He doesn’t realize that his behavior is the reason for your rage and with each passing moment it gets worse.

What Do You Do?

First understand from your dog’s point of view and learn to control your anger and your emotions!  We are the “thinking” and “reasoning” animal, we should always be in control of our emotions when it comes to our dogs!  Patience really is a virtue in dog ownership!

Next, change the word or the command.

If your dog totally ignores “NO!” then STOP USING IT and adopt a different command!

I once read a book where the author recommended that a dog’s name be changed if he had had bad experiences from its use or he ignored it completely.  Although I think this is a little extreme in most cases, I also understand that if a command means nothing or something bad when it should be good, it should be changed.

At my house I say Nein (nine) when my dogs do something horrifying and they have been taught to respect this word.

Originally I picked a word that wasn’t normally in my vocabulary.  I didn’t go around shouting “NEIN” in my real world.

So in order to find this word in my regular vocabulary, I had to be pretty frustrated.  I wasn’t going to use it haphazardly or too often.  I was truly irritated when I used this command.

That DOES NOT mean that my anger was going to drive me to hitting or compulsion.  I believe there is never a reason to raise your hand to your dog or use excessive physical force.

What it did mean was that I was willing to go to my dog to change the behavior.  At my house I usually only use this command for aggression; teeth touching me or another animal in my house and so if I use this command I am going to come to you to make sure your behavior stops.

This reliability in the command or word means that my dogs respect the word when they hear it and they immediately STOP showing the behavior in question.

When I trained Service Dogs we had to use the word “Phooey” for the same reason!

“NO” is too easy to use too often, misuse, overuse and often there is no follow up.

Dog training is about consistency!  If you give a command you need to enforce it somehow, whether that is the SIT command or the NO or NEIN or the COME command. If you give a command you need to be capable and willing to change the behavior in question!

Don’t get lazy!  The best way to make sure your dog respects you, listens when you tell him to stop and comes when he is called…is to train with him at least EVERY DAY!  Then listening to you becomes a well-conditioned behavior and he is more likely to do it even during times of stress and excitement!

Do You Own “No! No! Bad Dog”? is a post from: Dog Obedience Training Blog

Does your Dog Stare at what He wants?

The other day I found myself, staring blankly around my kitchen.  I guess I am getting old, because as with numerous other times I had forgotten what I was doing!

As I glanced around trying to get my bearings, my pupils caught the pupils of my oldest dog.  He is 12 and my very, very best friend, dare I say my furry soul mate?  He commonly follows me from room to room and I rarely am capable of completing any task without his help, or so he thinks (and I am afraid I agree)!

As my gaze matched his, I watched him very consciously look very lovingly from me…to the top of our refrigerator.

I giggled a little and acted totally brainless.  As I waited, to see what he would do, he very calmly caught my eyes and even more slowly turned his head to stare at the top of my refrigerator, languishing there for a moment or two before again glancing back to my face.

I must admit I found him completely endearing and totally hilarious.  You see, I keep my dog treats on top of the fridge.  This was his way of calmly, quietly asking for a treat, AND it must work!

I quietly asked him “What do you want” and again he slowly pivoted his head toward his awaiting treats.  By now, since I had engaged him in conversation, he was drooling in apprehension.

This got me to thinking…  As skilled as he was at getting me to deliver a treat (and yes, I admit I did give him one because his request was so quiet, calm and intelligent) I wonder what else he has trained me to do for him!

You see, I think we are the inferior species when it comes to dog training!  I believe they are much, much better trainers than we are! They are more patient, more insistent and less distracted than most of us!  Most of all dogs are incredibly consistent! Could you scream in a crate for 2 hours straight?

Dogs learn very quickly what behaviors we like and what behaviors we don’t and what behaviors get them the most interaction.  What behaviors reward them and what behaviors don’t.  Make no mistake about it; sometimes those are not related.  In fact sometimes dogs choose naughty behavior simply to get some kind of interaction from us because inadvertently we reward them when we don’t mean to!

AND, sometimes naughty, bad, deplorable behaviors are reinforcing!

Whenever I have a behavior problem or a struggle in my dog training, I ask myself “What is my dog getting out of this?”

This is the root to good dog training and understanding dog behavior.

When there is a problem, whether it be a human or dog related problem the person or dog is getting something out of the behavior.

In order to find a solution we must determine what the “payoff” is and if we are looking to change a behavior we must deny the subject the payoff they are use to or that they desire!

Does your Dog Steal?

For instance, I often hear of people who complain that their dogs steal objects, show their owners, and then dash off around the house for a fun game of “cat and mouse”.

The bad behavior: Stealing

The payoff:  The “chase” game, where the owners scream profanities, throw objects, cry and run around chasing the dog, is in fact the dog’s favorite game!  What could be more fun for your dog than a game that you will probably NEVER win (because you simply aren’t quick or agile enough to catch him)?  AND, it is completely interactive!  This is why your dog steals and often shows you the stolen article before darting off.

So, in order to change the bad behavior: Stealing…you must prevent the behavior or change or cease the pay off.   More on this problem in this article “Teaching your Thief to Retrieve” 

It doesn’t matter what the bad behavior is: stealing food, barking, jumping on people, having accidents on the floor, aggression; there is a payoff for your dog.

As the more intellectual animal you need to figure it out and decide how to change the behavior.

My ability to do so has often been the precursor to people saying I am part dog.   In order to conquer dog behavior, you must put yourself in his paws and “Think like a Dog” 

My challenge to you is to observe your world, watch what you are doing with and for your dog and ask yourself who is the better trainer in your home; you or your dog?

Do You End up Chasing Your Dog?

What do You do About it? 

The first step to true change is to acknowledge the problem.

Once you realize how YOU have been trained you can begin the re-training or the reorganization of your relationship with your dog.

Are you “Rewarding the Wrong Behavior”?

My dog, would personally like me to be a human PEZ dispenser!  Like all “animals” he would like to get everything in his life and in his world for free or at the very slightest with the least expelled energy as possible.

I don’t mean to dash everyone’s feelings about dogs, but they don’t care about pleasing you, unless of course in some way it pleases them.

We are all out for ourselves in the end.  The point is to make sure that what pleases you is what positively affects your dog!  Simple as that!

Will my senior dog continue to seek my gaze in the hopes of staring at the things he wants in life?  ABSOULTELY!  Especially since I rewarded him with what he desired the last time he did it, but in the scheme of things I didn’t feel this was a negative behavior.

However, I know that many of you are suffering from some nasty behavior problems and because of that I admonish you, step back and look at the big picture.  Take notes if you have to and make a list of the possible payoffs for your dog and only then can you begin to change that behavior!

Who’s Training Whom at Your House? is a post from: Dog Obedience Training Blog

Thank you to fortunate K9 for the picture

I do my very best to write for the masses.  I try to keep up on comments on my blog and the problems that plague dog owners around the world.

I write articles on basic commands like teaching your dog about the leash to finding your dog’s  motivator.  I also write intermediate articles for those looking for more of a challenge and advanced obedience.  We even talk about games and aggression.   Occasionally I even direct my articles to others in my field or those aspiring for such a career.

I even shoot short informative videos to show you how to train your own dog in your own time in the Dog Training Secrets Video Vault here www.dogtrainingvideovault.com

But I suppose I don’t hit all the questions that everyone needs answered.

However I get  A LOT of duplicate questions about the same behavior.

Utilize Our Resources!

Did you know I have almost 20 years experience working with animals?  I have worked with everything from police dogs, to service dogs from the disabled to large cats!  I have a glowing career I am quite proud of!

So, first I am here to encourage you to use our resources for yourself and the well being of your dog and to help those you know friends and family having questions.

• Read our blog!  There are articles posted twice weekly and these articles are also posted to Facebook and Twitter.
  

  Our Training is built on Play and Games to make it More Fun for you Both!

• When you click on the highlighted words in the body of the article it will take you to related articles!
• Search our blog.  If you have questions or problems or are suffering from a doggy behavior problem do a search in the search box in the upper left hand side of our blog.  You can search for anything from barking to nose games.  This is a great and free resource.
• We are constantly doing research to improve our techniques and keep up with the latest information in the field, which we often publish for you!
• We are honest and our training is simple, based on play, and always positive and fun!
• Join us on Facebook!  If you like our page at TheDogTrainingSecret.com it will automatically load not only the new training articles for each week, it will also post to your page interesting articles about dog’s health, dogs in the news and free dog offers!
• Share our posts to your wall so that your friends and family can get the free help that might help them improve their relationship with their dog and keep them from relinquishing ownership.  You never know when one article of hope can change lives!
• I also recommend that you join us in the Video Vault.  As with our dog training blog new videos are uploaded each week and can help you with everything from nail trims and just how to do them to leash training, barking and digging!  Watching a video can clear up any question on how-to and you can always go back and review!

The Obedience we All Aspire to!

So, here is my challenge to you.  Join us on Facebook and request an article or video to be shot reviewing a problem you and your dog are having that you don’t see already discussed and I will do my best to tackle your questions!

I write many articles and shoot many videos in advance that are waiting in the wings to be published so, please give me time and keep your eyes posted on your wall to look for the articles you have requested!

Go to Facebook, like our page, and bring on the work load!

Interactive Dog Training is a post from: Dog Obedience Training Blog

I don’t like training collars, except the gentle leader, because not only do most rely on compulsion and punishment they are rarely used for “training” like they were intended or as their name implies.

A training collar if utilized should be just that; only used to train or teach a dog something.

BUT, how many times do you see a 4 or 9 year old dog still using a prong collar?

One of the biggest problems is that dog owners have been taught to utilize these collars but instead of just teaching their dogs, they rely on these products constantly to get their dogs to comply with certain behaviors.  AND, the dog knows when the collar is and is not on!

Even though many of these people have been taught by a dog trainer HOW to use these items they are never taught how to wean their dog off of them or how to teach them a different way!

Did I mention I don’t like these collars?  I want to make SURE that everyone knows I NEVER recommend them!  After all, we are a “hands off” dog training system and nothing is more “hands on” than choke chains and prong collars!  So don’t send hate mail!!

Even though this is Disguised it is still a Prong Collar

But, I acknowledge that lots of people use them.  And, since you are most likely alone in your home reading this, you can admit to yourself that you just might be one of them!  I bet a very large percentage of my readers are currently using these products simply because they don’t know what else to do and their dogs are desensitized to anything else!

I use to not allow the dogs in my classes to wear any training collar except a Gentle Leader, then one day I drove past one of my clients who’s dog was sporting a prong collar.  It was a small community so I pulled over to inquire what was going on.  She was horrified and embarrassed but admitted she didn’t know how else to get her dog to listen.  She didn’t want to publicly admit she used the collar in my class and knew I wouldn’t allow it, so she just did her weekly homework with her dog in his usual prong collar.

It was at this moment I realized sometimes the only way I can truly help people change is by teaching them to wean themselves off these compulsion methods they think they need.  Whereas I never wanted her to use the collar again, I had to teach her how not to need it.  The last thing I wanted was for people to be too ashamed to ask for real help, or to go home and yank and pull their dogs into submission.

So it was then I came up with my program.  I promise my clients I can teach them how to never use a prong or choke chain again, and if I can do that for them they give me the collar they once used.  It is an exchange of knowledge and positive reinforcement for the negative compulsion collar and the methods.

Why Do People Use Them?

Because they are easy!

Unfortunately, it doesn’t take a lot of time and training to put on a prong collar and see a difference in a pulling dog.

And, unlike the Gentle Leader and other like head halters most dogs don’t throw a huge temper tantrum when these collars are put on.  Most dogs don’t even whimper or cry, but immediately they recognize that pulling is uncomfortable and not pulling makes the discomfort disappear.

Why Do Trainers Recommend Them?

Puppies and Young Dogs should NEVER need a choke chain or training collar!

Because they are LAZY!  Make no excuses!  There are better ways to teach your dog to respect his leash or not pull, but these methods take brain power, work, timing, and consistency.

Part of me wouldn’t be as irritated if these trainers at least taught their students how to quit using these tools, but again this would take time, work, and consistency.

Almost nothing is as nauseating to me as seeing a big, geriatric dog that has to deal with the pain and irritation of lugging around a pinch collar!

Don’t Judge or Blame!

I know this is a hard one, but most owners don’t want to inflict pain or hurt their dogs despite the ugliness of the collar most people hardly use it.

While it is true that in my career I have seen some truly malicious and cruel “corrections” given to dogs in prong collars, most owners have no desire to be barbaric.  And, those sadistic owners can usually not be reasoned with or educated.  I have to hope that someday they will be caught and prosecuted for their abuse.

Most people just get stuck in a rut or the collar was effective on their “last dog” so they default to using one on this dog.

Some people think that “certain breeds” require these types of collars but I disagree!  Dogs should be trained with your MIND not your body!  How do people think dogs respond to clients in wheelchairs? Rottweiler, Mastiff, Weimaraner, Chihuahua or Shih Tzu it is all the same to me!

How to Make a Change?

Most of these owners would like to change.  No one wants the looks or snippy comments when they see a prong collar but most people don’t know how to change.  You may want to utilize a buckle collar, but you don’t want your arm dislocated or broken on your next walk either!  Don’t laugh it happens!

This is what My Dogs Live for!

First

You must teach your dog the “Game” of positive reinforcement!  You have to teach your dog that he is in control of his environment, to some degree, you control what he has to do to get the reward but he feels like he is in control.

You need to build a foundation of fun and games.  Up until now you have been controlling your dog physically and a pinch collar cannot compare to a buckle collar when it comes to control, so you must teach your dog that there is a reason to listen to you and do what you want.

Don’t over use treats, but learn how to use them !

If your dog likes toys and playing with balls or chasing things and hunting, teach him to work using his normal doggy play drive.

This type of training does take a bit longer, but the foundation is so much more stable than regular compulsion.  I never have to worry about forgetting my dog’s collar because they have been taught not to pull in order to be rewarded with the things they want and their necks are not desensitized.

Dogs that rely on compulsion have become a bit desensitized around their neck.  What would get the attention of a normal dog or puppy no longer phases a dog use to a prong collar.  This makes using a leash and normal buckle collar almost impossible.  Your relationship is based on corrections and physical control.

So teaching your dog the foundation to positive reinforcement, how to play with you and giving him reasons to listen are crucial!  Also, taking toys, treats, and games with you when you take your dog out will also be vital for a time.

Next

The next is to slowly wean yourself and your dog from his training collar.  I would rather tell you to throw the collar away and start over, and in my opinion that would be the best way.  But, I realize that most of you won’t do that since it would take too long and you don ‘t know where to start.  So, I will tell you to do the next best thing.

Like a smoker who promises to quit, make a pact with your dog and pick out a date that you will throw the collar away or at least never use it again and then start to work toward your goal.

Some of the Tricks I Have Used Over the Years?

Dogs are great about associating objects that are totally unrelated.  For some dogs if you pair the old collar with a certain bandana for a period of time the dog will start to associate the bandana with the collar, enabling you to trick your dog into thinking the collar is on later, once you have stopped using it.  You can simply apply the bandana and the dog will undoubtedly stop pulling.

Next get a leash with two clips, or using a long leash feed a round key chain or “O” ring around the handle of your leash and feed onto the ring a clip.  This double clip allows you to clip one to his buckle collar and one to his former training collar.

This will help you to teach him what his normal buckle collar feels like when there is pressure on it and how to learn to respect it.  He needs to learn what is normal and not rely on the pinch or strangulation he is use to!  This does not mean to use the buckle collar to issue “corrections” you should be motivating him not correcting him!

The key is to do your very best to not use the training collar anymore!  If you are going to get drug into traffic or your dog is going to pull you down you still have the option of using the collar you are use to, but don’t use it as a constant crutch!

You should have a tool belt full of treats, toys and fun so your dog should be motivated to pay attention to you versus his normal boredom and pulling to fulfill his own needs.  You should now be the focus of his awareness!

If you are willing to put in some time, get animated, have some fun together and make a pact with your dog I think you will be much happier with the results and the lack of stares and comments and I KNOW your dog will be happier!

Weaning Yourself and Your Dog from Compulsion Dog Training Collars is a post from: Dog Obedience Training Blog

Nipping is Normal but RAGE is not normal in puppies!

I recently worked with a client who had gotten a puppy 2 weeks prior to our meeting.  The puppy was 6 weeks old when he brought him home and immediately he had concerns that his new family member’s biting was not normal.

Within a week, he had called me for emergency help.

It is hard to imagine an 8 week old puppy having “aggression issues” but unfortunately some of them do.  These are the puppies and the clients I worry about the most as these puppies age.  Without a sincere and dedicated change in their lifestyle these puppies are hardwired for aggression issues and problems that could lead them to shelters, to biting someone, and toward ultimate euthanasia.

I am sure I will get some backlash for publically admitting that tiny puppies can have “aggression issues” because most people think that “puppies are puppies and if you just RAISE THEM RIGHT” you will never have to worry about aggression in your dog.

However, as much as I would like to adhere to that philosophy it just isn’t true, and it isn’t fair for the owners that inadvertently end up with these pups.  Some puppies have an abnormal amount of aggression, anger and a tendency toward “biting” not “nipping” but actual BITING.

I worry about and I feel bad for both the puppy and his confused and saddened owner, who is doing all that he can to curb the behavior NOW.

Recognizing Aggression

The first thing to realize, thankfully, is that these puppies are abnormal and therefore there aren’t a TON of them out there.  But they do exist!  I have videos of 6 week old puppies trying to inflict the hardest bite possible on me when they are angry or guarding an object.

Puppies explore their environment with their teeth and most puppies go through normal nipping stages. This tooth play is how puppies play with each other.  Puppies don’t have hands and feet so they explore and play with each other with their sharp little teeth.  Some puppies even inadvertently break their owner’s skin while nipping and biting and most often this is normal and simply a problem of impulse control and learning to keep their little chompers to themselves!

In most cases, nipping is a factor in rough play or trying to engage their owners in a game because they are wound up or bored.  Nipping can also occur as a product of prey drive; meaning things that move fast past them (the cat, your pant leg) incur a bite.

Many puppies from police dog lines are known for jumping up and biting their owners in the thigh when they see their owners run or walk past and from this type of herding dog and these types of genetics this behavior can be completely normal!  Genetics are a powerful factor!

When a young puppy clearly lashes out in pure rage and aggravation this is not normal puppy behavior.

The puppy I was working with would BITE for a number of reasons.  The first was that he was terribly food aggressive if anything, inanimate objects included, came close to his food bowl he would strike with a fierceness usually reserved for adult dog behavior and if that object happened to be his owner he would be off seeking yet another band aid for his wound.  This is not normal.

Likewise, while training him if I did not deliver the treat to him in what he considered a quick enough manner he would bite.  He was using no impulse control, and going from 0-100 in a matter of seconds.  The bite was not due to his guarding the treat or inadvertently being too rough with me, he would lash out and BITE me for not doing what he wanted.

Not surprising he didn’t like to be physically manipulated or touched unless it was on his terms and if his rules were broken, he would leave you with an open wound.  These were not mistake bites or nips these were serious bites meant to make an impression and keep him from having to endure something that he didn’t want.

Most puppies learn or are born with some kind of impulse control, learning to control themselves and their desires to some small degree.  Usually momma dog is critical in teaching this impulse control at an early age because she doesn’t want to get bitten and tugged on as her babies grow.  She also keeps her puppies from picking on one another in an excessive manner.  She will put an immediate stop to a severe bully in her litter by giving the bully a quick and effective bite.

Most puppies will concede dominance or power and submit to the bigger animal as a means to survival.

Part of this puppy’s problem is that I believe he was separated from his mom too soon so he didn’t learn this early impulse control from her.

The other problem I believe is genetics.  I believe strongly in nature vs. nurture.  Now, don’t get me wrong I know that nurture is a HUGE part of behavior and that bad experiences can lead to bad behavior later in life.  But, I have seen dogs that were starved almost to death that would never consider being food or resource aggressive and I have seen dogs that have been beaten and abused that would never think about biting a person.

Just like not all abused children grow up to be sociopaths and not all sociopaths were abused.

When probing his owner deeper for more information on this particular pup, I asked what his mother was like when he went to pick him up.

“She had to be locked up in a bedroom because she doesn’t like people and can be really mean”.

I believe when you breed aggressive dogs, you often get aggressive puppies.  This isn’t always true, just like not all guide dog puppies that have been bred to be social are social, but the odds are greater that social dogs have social puppies and aggressive dogs can have aggressive puppies!  Aggressive dogs should NEVER be bred!

Hopefully people will read this before they consider taking a puppy from an aggressive adult dog breeding and that prospective owners will demand to meet at least one of the parents of their pup, or find a puppy from a shelter that temperament tests puppies!  This will keep many people from the heartbreak and toil that can ensue.

The Good News!

Most of these puppies if caught young enough are trainable with consistent and strict behavior modification, positive reinforcement, and socialization.

The Bad News:

It is a lot of work and you cannot fall back on your laurels and expect the behaviors to go away!

Most of these puppies need a lifetime of training and direct control from their owners or they can begin to slide back to their old ways and their desire to control their environment can emerge with a vengeance.

What NOT to do?

Don't Result to Physical Manipulation! Use your Mind!

Don’t use your size or strength to control or bully your puppy.

I would never recommend alpha rolls, complex or negative training collars, hanging or any nasty types of punishment.

The last theory I want to hold fast to is the old dominance theory;   that would tell me to physically win all battles with a puppy like this and never “show weakness”.

As a trainer if I tell my clients to use these theories, what happens when the dog is 150 pounds and decides to finally fight back and may maul their owner?  Aggression incites aggression and even if you don’t see it right away you can deal with some pent up and hostile emotions when your dog gets big enough to physically challenge you.

Smart people learn to use positive reinforcement tools and their superior human mind and problem solving skills to teach their puppies appropriate behaviors and impulse control in order to get what they want in life.

I will again reiterate the fact that giving advice to owners with severely aggressive dogs or puppies is irresponsible of me because I cannot see the puppy, get the necessary background, or see the individual to help them assess the best course possible for them and their dog.  If you have a very aggressive dog I suggest you find a professional that can come to you or you can meet with physically that will be able to help you.

But, I will tell you some of what I told the owner of this young puppy!

This puppy needs to work for his meals.  First, all food should come from his father’s hands, no more dog bowl to lord over at breakfast and dinner time.  This will help the puppy associate food and LIFE with his dad, and hopefully he will see how important his owner is to his survival.

Obedience starts NOW!  Understanding that he is still a baby and has a short attention span is crucial but having him adhere to rules immediately begins to teach him some impulse control!  He needs to live with a leash on so his owner can control him.

No longer will he get what he wants by using his teeth or his intimidation factor!  When dad feels teeth on him, he needs to get up and move away.  Bullies use their teeth to control the situation, when you take that tool away the puppy has to learn how to use his MIND and control himself and his behavior in order to get what he wants.

When he learns to take treats nicely from dad’s hands (I still have healing scratches from 10 days ago from the temper tantrums of this puppy), he will begin teaching the pup to handle unwanted touch by giving him treats when he allows being touched and manipulated.

Amazingly this puppy is social, so he will continue to socialize him but he will constantly watch his puppy for signs of anger (dilated pupils, freezing, staring) and he will give people biscuits to give to him before they touch and interact with him.  When other people pet the pup, his dad will get down with his puppy and give him treats for good behavior.  This step would not be recommended for puppies that are fearful or who do not want to be social with other people!

As this puppy ages his dad will be obstinate about utilizing control and gaining more control by doing basic things like making this dog do sit stays, down stays, waiting to be fed (once he starts eating from a bowl again), and other types of impulse control training.

Thankfully this puppy is very young and I believe that eventually if his dad is up for the job, this can be an almost normal adult dog.

However, if he lets down his guard, I believe this puppy could be a dangerous adult dog.

Ultimately I feel bad for this owner.  He wanted a puppy, but he didn’t necessarily want a puppy that would require this kind of work or would inflict this kind of pain not only on his body but also on his heart because he is also worried about his puppy’s future.

He is a good man, and I believe he is taking the right steps and tools to correct negative behaviors as early as he can.

This is why I always say “Sometimes good people get aggressive dogs” and so I never judge or place blame.  The last thing this man needs is someone blaming him for a puppy that is abnormally aggressive when he is doing his best to do right by his new family member!

Never claim to know a full situation or place blame, this doesn’t do anyone any good.  Only action changes behavior!

When Does Puppy Nipping Cross the Line Into Biting? is a post from: Dog Obedience Training Blog

Even back then, I use to see some of my clients (in my head) as he was counseling people.  He would ask a question, they would answer but then try to defend their behavior or their choices.

When given advice, they would often answer… “I tried, that doesn’t work, he won’t like it” and time after time they would try to defend their behavior or convince him to see the superiority in their thinking.

It was usually at about that time that he would interject… “So, how’s that workin’ for ya?”

This simple statement reiterates that the flawed behavior is NOT working and therefore there is a need for true and whole hearted change.

If something is working out efficiently, then there is no need for change.  But, when you are having tribulations you need to break down the actions and determine where things are flawed so that you can make a change.

The definition of insanity, as defined by Albert Einstein, is “Doing the same thing over and over and expecting different results.”

As a dog trainer, I run into this psychology or “insanity” all of the time.  People want their dog to “change” but they don’t want to exert any effort and they certainly see no need to change their behavior!

I was always happy to realize that it wasn’t just my clients who behave this way; these people were on TV arguing with the renowned doctor and expert that they were seeking advice from!  When I look at it that way, my feathers get a little less ruffled.

I have to admit it is usually people that are dealing with aggression or other severe behavior problems that want to do the most arguing.  I guess because serious behavior problems require the most work and effort, and often take the longest to see suitable results.

The problem is: I don’t have a magic wand.  I can’t come to your house and totally transform your dog for you in one sitting with no effort wielded by you.  It just isn’t possible; in the real non-TV world.

Like any other prevalent behavior that requires strict change; I think sometimes people need to hit their own rock bottom.  The problem with that rock bottom often ends with a bite, exorbitant damage and the ultimate euthanasia of the dog.

I am hoping to save some doggy lives and some people bites by pleading with dog owners who have dogs that are suffering from severe behavior problems to be willing to make some tough changes.

What Can You Do?

• The first step is to admit honestly that you have a problem
• The next step is to determine what you are willing to do about it?

Are you willing to do anything to save your dog?

Or are you unwilling to make proper change?

• The next is to determine WHY or what else is contributing to the ultimate problem
• Change takes total commitment and lots and lots of effort.
• You may need to retry something you gave up on too quickly!
• You have no idea how often I have heard “He doesn’t like it”… or “I put the Gentle Leader on, but he didn’t like it….”  Really?  No dog “likes” it at first; it requires effort to acclimate your dog to it!
• Behavior modification is often a slow and tedious process, and sometimes prevention needs to be inserted into the program by controlling aggressive dogs and keeping bites from having a chance of happening.
• Positive reinforcement, although it may take a longer time build a firm foundation, needs to be used.
• Do not fall prey to the dazzle and dramatization of forceful and barbaric methods of compulsion seen on TV.  Although the behavior may seem to evaporate, I guarantee the TV cameras are not there to see it reappear or see the additional behavior problems it creates!

I recently watched a TV episode where the dog trainer grabbed a trash can lid and a stick and slowly chased the fearful aggressive dog that had been biting people, into a corner and intimidated it until FINALLY it relented in exhaustion (panting and looking frantic) and accepted the trainer’s presence.

Later when the dog growled at the trainer while on leash, he was kicked in the ribs; as the dog trainer explained to rid him of “negative energy”; then he was fashioned with a shock collar and his brain was fried for an additional aggressive behavior.  By the end of the show, of course, the dog had been cured and allowed the trainer (and I am sure we are to assume others) onto his property.

We were shown very little training, actual energy, and follow through that his owners would have to do; as magically he seemed cured of his demons.

But, when the trainer and the camera crews are gone which delivery person or Girl Scout is willing to pick up a sword and shield and chase the unrestrained dog down if he barks in a threatening manner?  And, if they did (not knowing dog behavior like a professional trainer does) wouldn’t they likely be bitten?

Sure, I could chase dogs down and give them a kick to the ribs; but I refuse.  Aggression should not be treated by aggression and not everyone is capable of doing this type of work without getting bitten.  It seems quick and its flashy but it is irresponsible and doesn’t tackle the problem; it usually eventually exacerbates it (as the dog realizes not everyone has follow through or will use aggression) and it creates more problems in the end.  I am surprised more people are not mauled after treating a powerful dog this way!

First I would instruct the owner to fence the yard (preferably wood or other visually impenetrable fence) to safely contain the dog to keep it and people who wander up out of harm’s way.

Dogs, especially aggressive ones, should also be kept inside when owners are gone.  Control cannot be attained while owners are away and total change and breaking the cycle of aggression is imperative!

Behavior modification would be slow but would include the owner desensitizing the dog on leash and giving it something else to do (obedience) when people approach.  The dog would be increasingly rewarded for quiet and nonaggressive behavior.

Visitors would be instructed to toss wonderful treats to the dog when he was quiet and to avoid eye contact.  Speaking to a fearful aggressive dog and petting would be totally avoided in the beginning until it could be determined that both dog and human would be completely safe and acceptant.

Change is a Good Thing with Behavior Modification

Positive reinforcement is not as showy or glamorous to the onlooker but it is so much more effective, humane and safer for everyone!

Ultimately don’t fall for the tricks or the lure of an easy fix!  And, when your dog has a behavior problem commit to true change, don’t just jump to “that doesn’t work or he doesn’t like it” give it a heartfelt try as long as it is not dangerous to anyone involved.   Of course he “doesn’t like it” you are taking him and yourself out of your comfort zones!  This abandonment of comfort and the apprehensiveness it creates is a product of change.

Change isn’t easy, if it was we wouldn’t face it kicking and screaming all of the time…it is uncertain and leads us to feel uneasy, but when you have a sincere problem true change is essential!

“How’s That Workin’ For Ya?” The Need for Change in Dog Training is a post from: Dog Obedience Training Blog

Think You Have What it Takes?

Whenever I am out dog training or I meet people in a social setting they say they have always wanted to be or would like to be a dog trainer like me!  Whereas this is flattering I often wonder if people really realize what it takes to truly be a professional dog trainer!

I do not lead a glamorous life!

Some days I wish I could dress up, have long nails and wear jewelry, but alas…clothes get stained and ripped, nails are torn off, and I have had jewelry ripped off my neck by boisterous dogs.  And I have been bitten more times than I would like to admit; some being my fault and others blocking more serious damage.

I have one dog trainer friend that was disemboweled by a dog and another whose arm was broken by a dog that ran to the end of his leash!  Dog training is not always full of walks, snuggles and roses!

And, unless you import and train personal protection dogs or police dogs, it can sometimes be difficult to find your niche and actually make money in this business.

BUT, this article is not to discourage.  I actually welcome fresh faces who are willing to learn and dedicate their lives to improving the lives of dogs and their families.  We need as many kind and compassionate dog trainers out there as possible!

I do have some advice!

First:  Read as much as possible!  I have tons of books and read as many books on dog training as I can get my hands on!  You are never too old to learn and never think you are too good or have been doing it so long that you don’t need to.  Reading and studying helps to sculpt you into a fantastic trainer.

Second:  Find someone who will give you hands on teaching skills!  The only way to learn to work with a multitude of dogs and different breeds, styles and temperaments is to work with them and get some experience.  Most of us start out understudying under a senior or experienced trainer and that is a great way to get your feet wet.

I remember working 12 hour days and then volunteering to help with training classes for another 4 hours 4 days a week, but it was all worth it!

Third:  Volunteer at an animal shelter.  Spend as much time working with the dogs in a shelter and doing as much hands on training, talking with people and getting involved in all things shelter related as possible.

Be prepared!!  Working in a shelter will help to toughen your skin for the real world and you will see things that will affect you for the rest of your life, but it will make you a better trainer and a better person!  Trust me; there are things that you can only learn from working on the front lines of the war!

Fourth:  Try to get a job in “the field” if not training, then try to get a job at a veterinary clinic, groomer or an animal boarding facility.  All of this “hands on” work gives you more experience handling dogs and will be helpful in building your skills.  I have done all of the above and wouldn’t change any of my experiences for the world!

Yikes! But this Has Taught me Major Respect for the Power of a Dog!

Fifth:  Get into a bite suit!  Yes I said it, and yes it is probably controversial, but I think that any good dog trainer should spend at least a little bit of time in a bite suit with a tough and well trained police dog.

You can never really understand what it is like to be bitten by a dog until you are bitten by a dog.  The fear, the respect and the amount of damage that a dog can do in the fraction of an instant will all be installed into your mind and your soul instantaneously and in a fairly safe environment.

Dogs can exert 2,000 pounds of pressure per square inch with their teeth and until you are on the receiving end of that kind of bite and pressure you really can’t understand what it is like.

So before you recommend that an owner “alpha roll”, use a prong collar, or get into the face of an aggressive dog you should feel what it might be like if that dog decided to bite or imagine if he mauled his owner.   This is only ONE of the reasons I would never recommend such types of training!

Before you blame a pet parent or a child or expect someone to live with a dog that has bitten, you should feel what a bite is really like and how terrifying it must be for the average person.

This new found respect of dogs and all 42 of their shining teeth will also help you not to get too cocky or put yourself at a detrimental risk of a bite.
It also prepares you for WHEN you will be bitten for real.  We all get bitten at some point and watching a dog go through the motions of aggression from the safety of a bite suit will help you recognize when the point of no return comes and just what a dog looks like right before he bites you and how you can safely handle yourself.  I have scars up and down my arms and legs, but I have luckily not needed stitches as of yet!  My first bite was to the face!

Sixth:  Before you recommend a philosophy or a piece of equipment to someone else or their dog, make sure you would do it to your dog or to yourself!  Before you recommend an e-collar or shock collar (which I never would) strap it on YOUR NECK and use it on an upper level.  Don’t put it on level one and put it in your hand, experience it from the dog’s perspective!  I could never alpha roll or strangle my dogs and again, that is just one reason I would never recommend it to someone else!

Finally:  Find your compassion for people too.  Most of us get into this business because we love animals but in reality it is the PEOPLE you work for.  Don’t be the kind of trainer that places blame, focuses on the past and what problems the owners may have created, or thinks that EVERYTHING is fixable (most things are controllable to some degree but not all things are fixable).

Sometimes people need honesty, kindness and comfort when they make difficult decisions and it is my opinion that this is part of my job and undoubtedly the hardest part of my job.

It is not my job to blame, even though some people do crazy things, most often it is simply because they are ignorant and don’t know how to deal with problems.  The fact that these clients are coming to us dog trainers affirms the fact that they are making the right steps toward change.

I absolutely HATE when people blame aggression on other people and “how the dog was raised”.  Although it is true to some very small degree, it is absolutely not constructive to place blame and good people often end up with aggressive dogs due to no fault of their own!

Be the kind of dog trainer who helps them learn how to deal with such a dog, if they so choose, and not the one who blames them or makes unrealistic promises!  And don’t bring other peoples problems home with you or you will become one the many who gets burnt out fast!

Being a dog trainer isn’t always easy and it certainly isn’t always fun!  I can train just about any dog to do just about anything, but being a dog trainer means working with the people and the families that request your help and helping them to find success without you!  I want my clients to become dog trainers in their own right!

If you are looking for wealth and glamour you are in the wrong business; but if you are looking to get your hands dirty, don’t mind having your clothes ruined, fingernails ripped off, incurring the occasional bite, love dogs AND PEOPLE you might just have what it takes to make it in this field!

So You Want to Be a Dog Trainer is a post from: Dog Obedience Training Blog

Is Your Dog Unwilling to Share?

A lot of people have dogs that don’t like to share with the other dogs in the household.  Do you have a bully at home?

I think being possessive, resource guarding, or just generally not wanting to share is pretty inherent both with animals and with people.  How often do kids get in trouble for not sharing?

Hoarding, guarding and being possessive of food items can mean the difference between life and death in the wild.  The problem is our dogs aren’t living in the wild.  But, they still may be resistant to the idea of sharing what they consider a high value item.

The first thing to do is to assess how adamant they are about keeping the item away from your other dogs and how aggressive they are willing to be to keep the item.

As always, I am a safety first kinda girl; if someone is going to die or get seriously injured this matter becomes so much more serious and has to be dealt with, with safety in mind.  So let’s discuss highly aggressive dogs first.

Seriously Aggressive Dogs

The first thing to consider is your comfort level.  Although ignoring the problem isn’t going to work in the long run, I certainly wouldn’t recommend giving them a pig’s ear or something equally yummy to assess the situation!

Aggressive dogs need to go on a leash and a gentle leader to give you better control and keep a fight or a bite from happening.  Being off leash is a privilege and if a dog is showing aggression he loses that right!

Next is to introduce a low level toy or treat.  Low level means the lowest level possible to illicit the smallest response.  A toy that the dog barely cares about or a mediocre treat; again do not give a high level treat like a pig’s ear, real baked cow bone, or your dog’s favorite toy this might start severe aggression or a fight.

Dogs that are seriously food aggressive when they are fed, should be fed in their crates to alleviate the problem and keep dogs from fighting.  Sometimes the introduction of the crate makes the aggressor feel safer and therefore lessens his aggressiveness.  In a crate, he knows he does not have to defend his food!

Some dogs are so aggressive they cannot be trusted with great chewies or treats when other dogs are around because they become dangerous; these dogs may need to be put in a kennel or outside alone with their prize.  Occasionally a program of desensitization with them wearing a muzzle (to keep everyone safe) can help.

Only you know your dog, do not push him past his limits into a dangerous zone a veterinary visit to have dogs stitched up after a fight simply isn’t worth it.

And, never try this if your dog is also showing possession aggression or resource guards toward you.  There are easier ways to teach your dog to share with you that limit your chances of being bitten!  A visit to the hospital is also not worth it!

Mildly Aggressive Dogs

Yikes!!!

I stand by the fact that any dog showing aggression should be placed on at least a leash but in most cases also a gentle leader.  Again this just gives you control.  Instead of worrying about a bloodletting like you would with a seriously aggressive resource guarder, a leash still allows you to pluck the dog up and get him out of the situation.

I don’t allow aggression at my house.  My dogs are barely allowed to stiffen their body postures to each other and give each other the stink eye when they have something they don’t want to share.  No growling, snarling, snapping, or biting is allowed.

The ONLY exception to this rule is if I get an “oh so confident” puppy that is pushing his limits with the older dogs that he should be respecting.  In this case I would put the puppy on a leash and teach him some manners by not allowing him to try and steal from his older step-siblings.

At the first sign of any naughtiness or resource guarding I take the offender by the leash and lead him into another room for a brief time out.  If he is adamant about defending his article, he may lose the privilege of having it at all!

He may be crated or put outside alone, but I would not push his buttons by taking the item away and then making him endure watching the other dogs eat their prize.  Likewise I would never take his treat and give it to another; this only proves his point that he needs to guard his things and is liable to make his aggression worse!

Essentially what the dog wants is the “chewy” and so be revoking the privilege of having it for showing signs of resource guarding he learns it is unacceptable to guard items.

The Hoarder

All of my dogs learn to play “musical bones” where one dog tricks another dog to drop his “more appealing” bone and then snatches it away; this is normal.  It seems my dogs always want ONE bone; ultimately not the one that they have but the one that someone else is totally engrossed in and enjoying.

I have often giggled to myself as I watch my oldest dog Nix trick the others by sending up the emergency flag and barking like someone is at the door.  When the other dogs drop their bones and go racing to the front door, Nix is able to pick the bone he prefers.  Time after time the younger ones fall for the same trick!

But, I do not allow one dog to hoard the other bones, they may evenly exchange them around amongst themselves but I don’t accept hoarding.  Some dogs like to gather all of the bones and lay on some while chewing on one.  This is not tolerable!  (Again do not get bit if your dog is showing aggression toward you there are other safer ways, do not push an aggressive dog).  I take the hoarders bones away and redistribute.

I also draw a line with the hoarder that waits until everyone else has consumed their treat and then runs around growling and flaunting the fact that they still have theirs.  This hoarder will lose his bone all together if he shows this behavior, because what he desires is confrontation not the joy of chewing!

You wouldn’t allow your child to hoard all the toys and never share, or threaten other children if they came near… why would you accept this nastiness from your dog?

A Trick to Keep the Crowd Happy?

Arguing is NOT Acceptable!

I always distribute at least one more treat than there are dogs.  I have 3 dogs, so when I dole out rawhides I let each dog pick (from my doggy ruler down the line) and then I put out one more.  This helps with resource guarding because if someone steals someone else’s bone they don’t have to get close to or in the other dog’s face to get back a bone because there is always one laying around.  The other beauty of this model is that the most voracious chewer usually ends up with this bone when the others have had their fill so no one else really wants it!

When the resource is plentiful there is less of a chance your dogs will fight over it!

Dog allow your dog to be a bully!  It is not fair to your other dogs to have to feel like they live on pins and needles.  Aggression is never okay!  None of us wants to be bullied and I bet after a few sessions of losing the prize your dog will learn to control his impulses and resource guarding will be a thing of the past!

That’s MINE! Refusing to Share with the Other Dogs in your Pack is a post from: Dog Obedience Training Blog

Aggression is No Laughing Matter!

I have been a professional dog trainer for almost 20 years, and although I sincerely hate confessing to that because it ages me, it is also something that I am very proud of!  I have done many things in my vast career and I have seen even more things, admittedly good and bad.

Sometimes it is difficult to write blogs on dog training, especially dog aggression.  I have to assume a common medium in most of my writing, not only about the dogs but also about the dog owners.   Rarely are my articles geared to the most aggressive or the best behaved dogs because they are at the ends of the spectrum.  Usually I write articles that are geared for the owners and their dogs that are somewhere in the middle.

This article is for those dogs and their owners who are at the peak of the most aggressive end of the spectrum.  If you are afraid of your dog at times or his behaviors in any given situation, there is likely a good reason!  Never deny or refute the feelings of fear, if you do you are liable to end up in the emergency room seeking at the very least stitches and a tetanus shot.

It is difficult if not impossible to gage the aggression of someone’s dog by simply reading a post or hearing information.  The only true way to get a precise impression is to see it with your own eyes.  When I do in home training and behavior modification, I can’t give accurate information until I have met the dog and witnessed the behavior.

The aggression a dog shows can be as small and simple as raising their hackles, or snarling, or growling or it can be as frightening as showing all of the above listed behaviors with lunging and biting.

What one person thinks is a serious display of aggression another may shrug off as normal dog behavior.

The truth is that almost no signs of aggression displayed by dogs are tolerable in normal society.

That being said, I take all reports of aggression very seriously.  Even the smallest signs of aggression can escalate build on itself and lead to more serious and pronounced aggression.

Any Dog Can Bite! Thanks to Doganswers for the Picture

I have often worked with brutal and terrifying dangerous dogs; I have seen many bites, incurred a few and I have seen many successful rehabilitations.  However, rarely have I seen owners who were equipped with the knowledge and abilities to deal with these types of dogs.  And occasionally I have even referred my clients to other professionals, usually veterinary behaviorists, when I feel that my clients were unable or unwilling to heed my advice.

Several years ago I worked with a dentist and his family, when their Great Pyrenees died of old age their family had gotten a white German Shepherd Dog puppy; his behavior was much different and much more dominant than they had ever experienced from their previously beloved Pyrenees.  He was beginning to show some mild signs of aggression to their children, especially their youngest a girl of about 8 years old.

I had been called in and we discussed the seriousness of the behaviors and making the new puppy earn all of his privileges in life and the “nothing in life is free” principles then we set up a training regiment and I had their 8 year old working on clicker training, tricks and feeding the dog and changing their relationship with fun and games.

However, another trainer and a friend of the family suggested a different plan.  He took the dog to his kennel for several weeks for “obedience training and behavior modification”.  When he returned the dog he suggested having the 8 year old lay on the dog for a period of time each day.  Despite my very adamant, vocal rejections and warnings of this program, they continued to force both the dog and child to engage in this very hazardous behavior.

Unfortunately after several days of this the girl was mauled and the dog was eventually euthanized; both cheated out of a normal life and both were unwilling participants in a perilous situation.  Compulsion, corrections, force and pain are NEVER the way to treat aggression.

Aggression is no laughing matter, and even the smallest signs can escalate very rapidly into an uncontrollable dog.

What Can You Do?

As much as I would like to give you personal advice and information, I feel as if it would be negligent to expect to treat a dog with severe aggression without seeing it first hand.  I can, however, give you the guidelines you need to be successful in your training and behavior modification endeavors.

New Aggression may be a Sign of Something Else!

First

If this is a new behavior, take your dog to the vet immediately!  Many conditions can sponsor aggression.  Ear infections, urinary infections, dysplasia, seizures and many more conditions can cause aggressive behavior.   You owe it to your dog to do the proper verifying and make sure he is not in pain or suffering from other physical problems.

Second

If your dog has been thoroughly cleared of a physical cause of aggression, it is time to seek help.  The quality the help you find is in direct relation to how effective the behavior modification will be!

Sometimes what they say is true, “you get what you pay for” so don’t sell yourself or your dog short.  That is not to say, nor to imply, that the most expensive alternative is the best.  But don’t choose the trainer who is new to the field or has little experience.  You don’t want you or your dog to be an experiment.

DO NOT use force or compulsion.  I cannot say that enough!  I have seen and heard about deplorable things done in the name in dog training and expelling aggression.  Don’t try them, no matter how frustrated or angry you are!  Aggression incites and breeds aggression; learn to use your mind to get your dog to do what you want.  If it seems too easy, it probably is!

I almost ALWAYS recommend a veterinary behaviorist.  That is a veterinarian who specializes in dog behavior and behavior modification.  I recognize that you will probably pay a little more for such a service, but I also know that if they think your dog could benefit from medication you are hitting the “two birds with one stone”, so to speak.  I know, too, that no good veterinary behaviorist would recommend things like prong collars, or choking dogs out; vets are going to use proven methods of positive reinforcement and behavior modification with the addition of proven prescription medication if needed.

Third

Be Careful! But find a Kind and Gentle Behaviorist with lots of Experience!

Do not presume to treat severe aggression yourself or deny the work involved.  Understand that any behavior modification process is lengthy.  Be prepared to stick it out and do whatever you have to, to be successful.

Aggressive dogs are often not “re-homeable”.  It is a HUGE liability to re-home a dog, that has bitten or shown signs of aggression.  Even if you place a dog that “doesn’t like children” into a home without children, the odds of him never seeing or being exposed to another child is rare if not impossible.  So what happens if that dog you placed mauls a child and you had previous knowledge of a bite?  You could be in some deep trouble!

There are some tough decisions owners of aggressive dogs face; but I admonish you if you decide to work on the behavior, be willing to make some sincere changes.

Do not deny medication if your vet truly thinks it may help.  So many owners I have encountered were initially unwilling to medicate their dogs for an infinite number of reasons, some reasonable and some irrational; I can attest to you that I have seen the benefit of the administration of medications.

I can also tell you that if I was bi-polar, schizophrenic, or had other mood disorders I would want medication to help me feel better and better control myself and my environment!  Don’t deny your pet something that you would take for yourself or something that can make his struggle easier!

Fourth

Owning an aggressive dog is not only a huge liability it also demands strict adherence and maintenance of your dog and his behaviors.

Only you can keep your dog from biting or showing aggression again.  The safety of your dog and the public is in your hands!  One moment of relaxed behavior or negligence can end in horror.

NO ONE wants to have to meet with the sheriff’s office, animal control or stand in front of a judge and have to try and explain WHY a bite occurred, especially AGAIN.

Fifth

Don’t blame yourself.  The old adage that if only a dog was “raised right” it wouldn’t have shown aggressive behavior is an urban legend.  I have seen distinct and ruthless aggression from puppies as young as 6 weeks.  Sometimes good people get aggressive dogs.

There is hope!  If you are willing to adhere to the rules and the veterinary behavior modification plan, do your homework, and possibly administer medications there is a chance you can control the aggression.  Aggression is usually not “curable” but it can be “containable”.

When Is It Time to Seek Professional Dog Training Help with Aggression? is a post from: Dog Obedience Training Blog