Category : Dog Training

I am certain that I am not the only dog obedience trainer that reads this blog, actually I have taken notice to quite a few of you!  And, for those of you who are currently in a dog obedience class or know someone who is a trainer, print this out and give it to them!

We, as professional dog trainers, are often really dull and BORING!  I know we don’t like to admit it (and some of you may be offended that I even suggest you are boring) but let’s face it, it is difficult if not impossible to not fall prey to getting tiresome after years of training.

We drone on about heel position and perfect sits and our methods and basic curriculum hardly ever changes!  I admit, I have been there; and I know how hard it is to be a dog obedience trainer and realize week after week hardly anyone is heeding your advice or doing their homework.

We have a very limited amount of time to make a real impact on the lives of our clients and their dogs.  Most people will only take ONE obedience class with their dog and so we have a lot of stuff to pack into a 6 to 8 week period.  I also know that you are treated like a celebrity after class and everyone wants a piece of your time and advice!

It’s a complex job at best and sometimes it is downright disheartening depending on your classroom dynamics! Read more »

Today I want to discuss a working dog theory and get everyone’s opinion on the idea and why people are so adamant that it works.  Although I really won’t weigh in on what I think, only giving the facts and the pros and cons, those who know me and my writing will probably know where I stand!  I am fascinated by the fact that this particular theory seems to work so well for so many.

Let me clarify, for today’s article working dog=police/military/competition dog.  This theory would not work for Guide/Service/Hearing working dogs.

As the theory goes; working dogs should not be treated as pets and are not pets.  Working dogs should be kept outside in a kennel and not live inside with their handler or owner.  The dog should be taken out a few times a day to work and some work related play is allowed.  It is believed that this aloofness creates a better working dog. Read more »

Recently I was out dog training with a middle aged couple that had acquired a lovely, but wild Maltese/Terrier mix.  Admittedly she has many problems some of which include aggression towards the toilet (when it flushes) and vacuum and also the possessive guarding of her human “Mother”.

“Mom” is her main care giver.  She gets up in the morning feeds and waters her, takes her for walks, plays with and trains her.  Although there is an adult son that also lives in the home and her human “Dad” they mostly only interact with her when Mom is gone and they NEVER train with her.

She is definitely spoiled and gets almost everything she wants, from everyone.  When she demands that her humans pet her; they do.  When she wants to play ball, she initiates and insists someone throw it for her; non-compliance will be met with barking and an escalation from nipping to hurtful biting.  When she doesn’t want to be picked up, she flashes her teeth and is hastily left alone.  She has to be tricked to enter her crate when it is time for her owners to work.

Mom makes her listen and obey commands most of the time, but gives in to her “cuteness” and has trouble truly enforcing commands, but no one else even asks her to obey or adhere to any rules.

AND, “Dad” is not allowed to affectionately touch “Mom” in her presence without the threat of significant bodily harm and damage (thank goodness she is not a Rottweiler!). Read more »

Some puppies learn early in their development to guard the resources they receive, or their littermates might take them.   They guard food, toys, treats, chewies and even affection by snarling, growling, and even biting.  This guarding behavior often extends into their new homes.

The problem begins when these bullies enter a home with humans and especially those with young children.  They must be taught impulse control and not to guard whatever they value.   It is imperative to start this training while the puppy is young, if this behavior continues past adolescence it can be become extremely dangerous.

I remember hearing a story about resource guarding that still makes my hair stand on end.

On thanksgiving the grandmother of the family took the turkey out of the oven and put it on the counter to cool before dinner was to be served.

The family dog immediately came into the kitchen and began sniffing around and investigating the turkey.  At some point he decided the turkey belonged to him.

Therefore, when the grandmother returned to retrieve the turkey for dinner, he attacked her.  Her wounds were so significant that she had to go to the hospital for stitches. Read more »

The tide of dog training is changing.  The good news, is that it has been changing for most of us dog trainers for years, and although there is always a resurgence of negative training methods the science behind dog training is proving that the dog world has had it all wrong for years!

Problem #1: Theories were Based on Outdated Information

When dog training hit the mainstream a few years ago and got a lot of coverage on new series and TV moments, almost certainly the reason for a dog’s problems were linked to his “wolf heritage” and short term studies that were done on wolves in the 1940s.

Problem #2:  These Short Outdated Studies were performed on Captive Wolves

The problem with most of these studies that proclaimed to shed light on not only wolf behavior but also dog behavior was that they were done mostly with captive wolves. Read more »

I don’t often condone much less recommend the use of dog training collars because most often these references refer to: choke chains, prong or pinch collars, or even shock collars.  However, I do on occasion recommend the use of The Gentle Leader ™ and similar head halters.

I almost ALWAYS recommend a head halter for dogs that show ANY kind of aggression: dog aggression, human aggression, wheel aggression (wanting to chase scooters, cars, roller skates), and even fear aggression.

A properly fitted head halter gives you the ability to control the offensive body part; the snout and mouth.  Although a dog can still eat, drink, bark and bite with a head halter on, it allows their owners to control their face and snout.

Imagine your dog races, accidentally off leash, towards a dog aggressive dog.  Dog #1 is wearing a gentle leader head halter and his owner is able to pull his face upwards and keep his gnashing teeth from biting your dog, dog #2 is on a choke chain, prong collar, or buckle collar and because of his great range of motion in his neck and face he is able to lash out and deliver a bite despite his owner’s best attempts to keep him from biting your dog.

Although this is not necessarily the dog aggressive dog’s fault (since the other dog was off leash), accidents happen!

Now imagine that you are the owner of the dog aggressive dog; which collar would you prefer?  I would want the ability to control my dog’s snout and mouth in any

instance where he might be aggressive or deliver a bite.

People who have never had an aggressive dog think that these dogs should be left at home and never taken out in public or around other people or animals.  However, you cannot work on behavior modification and helping problem dogs if you simply lock them up and never teach them appropriate behavior.

BUT, as the owner of a dog that has aggressive tendencies you want to be in as much control as possible and the idea of your dog showing aggression is usually horrifying for you and fills you with shame.  Good people often get aggressive dogs, or dogs with problems and they have to deal with people who judge and blame them!

My second dog, a female Rottweiler, was excessively dog aggressive for most of her life.  She is the reason I am a dog trainer.  I couldn’t lock her at home and HOPE that her problems would leave and she deserved a shot at a normal life with on-leash walks throughout neighborhoods and parks. Read more »

I have had several requests as of late to write an article on off leash dog obedience. Almost everyone that has a dog aspires to off leash dog obedience at some point in time.  But there are essential steps to getting there and ways to make sure it is effective and fun!

Off Leash Essentials

• The first thing to remember is that off leash obedience is ADVANCED obedience.  The rituals that you must follow in dog obedience are first basic obedience, then intermediate obedience and finally advanced obedience.
• Preparing for advanced obedience means your dog is listening to you at the end of a long line (a leash that is 25 or 50 feet long).  Long lines (not flexi leashes) are a great way to test your obedience skills and still give you the ability to be in control of his behavior and limit his ability to run.
• Off leash obedience is definitely an advanced stage of dog obedience, and in order to get there successfully your dog must be listening to you on leash both inside and out of the house at least 90% of the time.  I believe he must also listen to you off leash around the house over 90% of the time.
• If your dog is not at this level, go back and work on your basic and intermediate skills.  There is no shame in having to back up and revisit your obedience skills.  Even the most advanced trainers and dogs will have to regress in their training at different points.  My goal is always 90% before I take another step forward.
• Next you must find several safe places to train. Read more »

Once you and your dog have learned to play together and you have built your dogs play, prey and chase drive you can begin teaching your dog to work in “Drive”.

People ask me “Why is drive training important?  Why would you want to work your dog in drive rather than just rely on regular dog training methods?”

The answer to this is simple.  Drive training is more FUN for your dog.  And, hopefully if you are doing it right, drive training should be more fun for you too!

However, training and working your dog in drive is much more work than traditional “yank and pull” dog training, I think it is even more complicated than most clicker training.  It takes excitement and animation when you play, and it also takes superior timing.  Your praise and the release of the toy need to come in a timely fashion in order for your dog to understand what you want and to learn what your expectations are for his training.

It is more difficult for him to pay attention and have patience because you are playing his favorite game, with his favorite toy.  I liken it to taking a child to the zoo and expecting him to do math.  Although this would be a great reinforcer and would likely work well in the long run (he would learn to love math because of the reward he gets for doing it), it would be difficult for him to focus and be patient at first. Read more »

Let’s be honest, one of the reason people get and like dogs is because they feel more confident and protected by them.  It has been proven that even the bark of a Chihuahua will drive away a burglar.  For most criminals it simply isn’t worth getting involved with someone with a dog.

When I was 18, a requirement of marriage was getting a Rottweiler.  I got 2!  My female Rottie was around 100# and was the sweetest, kindest, doggie soul you could ever meet.  She almost never met a person she didn’t immediately adore.  I use to laugh because if you simply placed a finger on her she was thrilled by the affection.

As I walked her to the park one day, a man jumped out from around a van.  I had NEVER seen her hackle or her show her teeth to a person before that moment and a growl resonated from within her belly.   I was just an 18 year old kid and definitely not a dog trainer yet.

He hastily scurried around his van entered through the passenger side scooted over and his wheels screeched as he tore out of sight. Read more »

We have all lived with, or visited a dog that seems obsessive compulsive about playing.  You are sitting quietly watching TV or trying to get some work done when a sloppy, slimy tennis ball is thrust into your lap, leaving a stinky mark behind!

Whereas I believe it is crucial to your relationship with your dog to play together, it can also be vital to be able to get some work done or to let your dog know when it is and is not appropriate to play!

From Your Dog’s Point of View

In order to resolve any behavior problem, I believe it is critical to understand the behavior from your dog’s point of view.  Understanding is fundamental to change.

Boredom increases the likelihood of all kinds of naughty behaviors, least of all being an annoying invitation to play!  Some dogs chew drywall, shred carpet and get in all manner of trouble in order to entertain their minds and/or interact with you on some level.

Remember that ANY interaction from you, even negative is at least SOME kind of interaction.  Dogs are pack animals and need social interaction even if it comes in the form of yelling and screaming.

Dogs need exercise!  Mental stimulation keeps their minds strong, but they also need physical exercise.  Play helps them both mentally entertain themselves, it also helps them physically to burn off some steam and keep their bodies healthy.

Animals are more proficient trainers than we humans could ever be; their patience far surpasses our own when it comes to waiting for rewards.  This is a wonderful attribute, most of the time…BUT this is also why dogs are so incessant and willing to poke and prod you for hours on the chance that you will throw the ball just once!

As humans we are easily distracted and move on quickly if we are not rewarded rapidly.  We are very impatient mammals!

But, dogs have learned if they just stick it out long enough, they might finally be rewarded.

For example, if he barks LONG ENOUGH while in his crate you will let him out.  If he continues to thrust his ball in your lap, or bark at it on the ground you will eventually give up and toss it for him. This release or final toss, makes it even more rewarding when the moment comes to pass.  Imagine waiting weeks or months for a reward…when you finally get it; it is almost more exciting than you can stand!

These moments built on sustained patience and the eventual very high value reward means that your dog is even more willing to be MORE patient and incessant and wait you out the next time!

What You Can Do?

First and foremost is to understand that your dog needs exercise and interaction!

If you need to, schedule time for your dog!  Get up early and throw the ball with him, and make time to throw it after dinner and perhaps again before bedtime.

Be sure that you can tell yourself honestly that you have given him all of the attention and exercise he needs and deserves before you get angry that he is demanding your attention.

Make training and playing on your schedule and on your terms.  If you stick to a schedule your dog will get to know it and will be less demanding at other times during the day.

If your dog is getting enough exercise he should be too tired to be toooo demanding!  So,  if your dog normally comes to you at 2pm while you are trying to work, try taking him out at lunch time for a game of ball, or a walk, or a run so that he will be tired at his normal 2 o’clock play time.

Take his favorite toy away and only bring it out when YOU want to play!  Leaving him access to it all the time allows him to chew it and bring it to you in an attempt to get you to play with him!

Give him something else to do!  Keep him busy by teaching him to retrieve other items for you or having him lay by your feet or under your desk.

Working dogs like Service Dogs are so happy because they constantly feel like they have a job to do!  Even if that job is just laying quietly at their person’s feet, the dog feels needed and enjoys “working”.  Give your dog a job!

This one is important:  DO NOT GIVE IN

No matter how incessant he is, don’t give in to his demands!  This only reinforces his demanding behavior.

If he continually bugs you with barking, pawing, or the thrusting of toys get up and leave the room.  Or, you can put him outside or in another room for a bit until he calms down.

Once he realizes that demanding that you comply to his playtime ends with you or him leaving the room he will begin to stop showing the behavior.

But, remember that his patience and insistence has paid off in the past and so counter conditioning him will take longer than simply teaching him a new behavior.

Simply Put

• Give him the exercise and play he needs on your schedule and your terms!
• If he is bored and has pent up energy, he deserves to be played with!
• Put his favorite toys out of his reach so he can’t be so demanding!
• Give your dog a job!
• Be patient and don’t lose your cool!
• Whatever you do: Do Not give in to his demands or you will ruin your success for counter conditioning!

My #1 Dog Training Tip

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