Probably the second most important facet in dog training is exercise.  Those of you who are getting use to my writing know that I think the number one most important point of good dog training is mental stimulation, but the next most important is exercise!  When I trained police dogs, I often had them run next to my bicycle or scooter until they were exhausted.  They needed the physical exercise to calm their minds and spirits.

Most all dogs and people can benefit to adding to their exercise regimen, unless of course they have a heart condition.  Exercise lowers our blood pressure, can uplift our moods, and can even decrease our chances for developing certain diseases.  These benefits are also obtainable to your dog.

A tired dog is a good dog!!  This is probably my favorite quote, and the truest statement in dealing with your dog.  There are many ways to attain a tired dog, but exercise is a fairly easy way to get what you want.

Almost 100% without a doubt when I do a behavior consult with someone having difficulty with their dog, I recommend increasing the amount of exercise their dog is getting.  Dogs without exercise and mental stimulation begin to rot mentally and that leads to a lot of naughtiness and problem behaviors.  Dogs that have jobs and work all day for their people or those that get a lot of exercise are much less likely to suffer from behavior problems.  Exercise is also helpful for almost all behavior problems, it very rarely increases problems.

Imagine taking a room full of small children locking them up and not giving them any exercise or allowing them to play or to mentally stimulate themselves; they would go insane and they would drive YOU insane.  The more exercise, learning and structure our children get the happier they are and less they likely they are to get into trouble.  Your dog has the same requirements, but most people buy a dog and expect it to take care of its own needs.  Dogs require stimulation and exercise to be happy.

Almost all dogs can benefit from exercise; fat dogs, old dogs, young dogs, skinny dogs, puppies can all benefit from an exercise program.  You may have to cater an exercise program to fit your dog’s needs but in any case most dogs need some way to rid themselves of excess steam.

The joy of exercise is that it comes in all forms; hiking, biking, swimming, walking, running, skijoring, retrieving, games, weight pulling, drafting and numerous others all qualify as good forms of exercise.  If you do it right, you and your dog will never tire of a boring routine.

Take Your Dog Running; You Will Both Reap the Benefits

• Just take caution with puppies and geriatric dogs.  Puppies of medium to large breeds should not exercise on hard ground or pull weights until they are at least 2 years old, extra large breeds like Rottweilers and Great Danes should wait until they are 3 or until their vet says it is safe.  Excessive exercise on growing dogs can cause the breakdown of cartilage and bones and can cause dysplasia and arthritis.  Young dogs and puppies must be exercised on soft ground.  Geriatric dogs should be allowed to lightly exercise to build muscles and flexibility which can also help with arthritis.

The majority of people who have dogs that are suffering from behavior problems have adult dogs between the ages of 1-5 and this is the time when exercise is at its most important!  Adult dogs should be exercised at a minimum of 3 times a day, morning, afternoon and evening.  Adding exercise will help to decrease your dog’s boredom and increase his success of becoming a good pet.

No Matter What You Choose, Make Sure You Are Reaching Your Dog's Fitness Needs

“I don’t have time to exercise my dog!”

“My dog has a big back yard to run in he doesn’t need exercise”

I have heard all of the excuses!  Your dog is an investment not only in money but also in time and companionship.  Your dog has needs and sometimes you have to inconvenience yourself in order to ensure success and happiness for your dog.  Get up early if you have to, or go to bed later but make sure you are devoting the time he needs to his success as a good companion and friend.

Dog’s don’t “run laps” on their own, very rarely do dogs utilize a big back yard as a means to exercise and run out their energy.  Even with the biggest back yard or acres to run he needs someone else to help him and encourage him to exercise.  He is not going to set his own exercise goals, you have to do that for him.

If you sincerely want to give your dog a shot at being a good pet and pleasing you, you need to give him sufficient exercise.  Not only will his body benefit from the payback of exercise, but he will be spending time with you listening to your voice and hopefully working on obedience and your bond as he exercises and becomes weary.

Let him run next to a bike, take him swimming, have him pull a tire; whatever you decide that is appropriate for his breed, age, size and his abilities allow him to blow off steam in a constructive manner and you will see the benefits through his behavior in a few short days!

Exercise the Crucial Element is a post from: Dog Obedience Training Blog

Most often when I hear my clients complain about these behaviors I wonder if the dog is truly mentally and physically stimulated at home.  If I was locked in a room with 4 white walls and one sofa with nothing to do for days on end, sooner or later I would shred the sofa too!  You must find ways to entertain your dog’s mind to help him stay well behaved.

A dog’s sense of smell is 2000 greater than that of a human.  I often liken reading a book or watching a movie to a dog following a scent or even digging through layers of ground scents (although we consider this naughty, each layer of ground has a new and different story for your dog’s nose)

A Dog’s Nose Can Find

Your Dog's Most Powerful Sense

• Missing Persons
• Cadavers
• Disease like cancer cells
• Seizures
• Molds
• Insects like termites
• Explosives
• Drugs
• Fruits and Veggies at customs

It is instinctual for dog’s to use their noses, so I like to teach my dog’s how to use them appropriately and how to play games with their noses.  This is also appropriate to do with multiple dogs, as long as it doesn’t get too competitive.

In Nose Work 1,  we will discuss the basics of teaching you dog to use his sense of smell at home, and later I will discuss different ways to teach your dog to use his nose in his outside world and how to teach him scent discrimination.

How To Get Started

1. Air pop some popcorn, do not use microwave popcorn with butter or salt; this is too hard on your dog’s kidneys.  Use plain popcorn for this training because it is easy to see, nonfattening, and easy to smell
2. First I toss some pieces of popcorn on the floor in front of my dogs and say “Find It” .  “Find It” means to use your eyes, nose and ears (if appropriate).
3. Once your dog is adept at looking around and eating the popcorn, hold his collar or avert his eyes as you toss the popcorn so that he will not see it fall, you can use a helper if you need to, then give him the “Find It” command.If he is having trouble finding it, calmly walk toward the popcorn without leaning over or showing him and wait till he finds it, or back up a step in training. When your dog is clearly looking around and you can hear him sniffing he is ready to move on to the next step.
4. Next toss a piece of popcorn clearly out of his range of sight but within easy reach if he wanders around; like behind your chair or sofa or around a corner and give him the command.  Again, he should be clearly using his eyes and his nose to search for the popcorn.
5. Then start hiding the popcorn under things like the table or the edge of the sofa, be careful that he is able to get to the popcorn or he may become frustrated bite the furniture or scratch the carpet.
6. Next hide things at table or sofa level like on the sofa, a chair, or a book shelf (avoid the kitchen table this time ha ha)
7. Now begin hiding things on a higher level above his nose level.  He must be taught that things can be found on all levels of his environment or he will give up if he can’t find it easily

Play this game for several days or even weeks until you are sure your dog has grasped the concept and is actively searching, now using mostly his nose to seek his treat.

The next step is to find a unique smell and attach it to an object that can easily be hidden.  I often chose a large rag and salt.  Salt is very easily detected by the canine nose so I soak a large rag (so that it cannot be swallowed) in water and lightly sprinkle with salt.  Do not use too much salt, only a very light sprinkle is needed, remember your dog’s nose is 2000 times stronger than yours!  Now allow the rag to fully dry.

Let your dog sniff the rag then go back to step one by tossing the rag to the floor and saying “Find It”.  Praise him wildly when he races toward the rag, you can also give him a treat.  Go back to the list and work your way down the steps hiding the rag on all levels of your room.

When he becomes adept at finding the rag, I like to teach my dog to lay down as a passive sign that he has found his scent.  As soon as he finds it, have him lay down and reward him so that he realizes that this is a behavior chain: find the rag, then lay down to alert that the rag has been found, and then wait patiently for the treat.

As you are training, move from room to room and never use a particular pattern of which level it can be found on, when he finds it don’t let him grab it, have him lay down and reward him for a passive alert.  This keeps him from ever snatching things that could possibly be dangerous.

As he learns this game, I begin to change the scent.  Much later we can teach him scent discrimination but in the beginning using a few different scents to hide is enough.

I keep my rags in Ziploc bags in the freezer to keep their smell fresh and to keep him from playing this game without me, becoming bored, or associating where I keep these rags with the game.  You need the scent to be as fresh as possible in the beginning.

Have a good time and as he learns and becomes adept at this game make the hiding places more difficult for him to find, this challenges his mind!  This is a great game that can be utilized even when the weather is cold or rainy or you don’t feel like taking him out for physical exercise.  Basic nose games are some of my favorite ways to entertain an active, bored dog that needs a job!

Nose Work 1 an Introduction to Nose Games is a post from: Dog Obedience Training Blog

Bored? Play a game with your dog!!

I live in Southern Georgia, most people move to the South to avoid the dramas of the weather known to our cohorts to the North.  Being from Wyoming, I know the joys and horrors of winter and most of the time I joke that we don’t even have seasons here in the South it is just one extended summer.  However, much to my chagrin we have had a winter this year.  My pipes have frozen, and I have had to scrape my windows more than a dozen times (after 3 years I had to buy a window scraper).

The whole country it seems has been experiencing a winter of record, so I thought while we are all cooped up inside we should discuss some of my favorite foul weather games to pass the time until spring comes and we can get outdoors and get the exercise we are all in need of!

Dogs need mental stimulation, without it they begin to choose naughty behavior and get into trouble.  Our dogs cannot watch television, they can’t read books or do any of the things we usually enjoy when exercise outside is not an option.  However, they still have the same amount of pent up energy building up day by day and they need a way to expel it.

The easiest way to entertain your dog is to give him something exciting to chew.  Chewing is a minimal form or exercise and mental stimulation for your dog.  Often, if we don’t provide an appropriate chewy, our dogs will begin chewing things that they shouldn’t put their mouths on.  Chewing gives them something to do.

I also like to play indoor games with my dogs when the weather is bad, or when their energy level is driving me crazy and I can’t take them outside for some physical exercise.  The whole point of playing games with your dog is for both of you to enjoy yourselves!  Pick games or invent games that you will both enjoy.

I love to play hide and seek with my dogs!!  Hide and seek not only builds a bond, it also teaches your dog to find you utilizing his other senses; his sense of smell and his sense of sound.  I want my dog to know how to find me using all his senses just in case there is ever an emergency.  Instead of panic at being lost, by playing this game, I have given my dog the tools to find me and he thinks he is playing his favorite game.  This is also a great way to teach your dog that the word “COME” is the most exciting and fun word he can hear.

• I often use a helper (or you have to tell your dog to stay), this is great for kids, and one person holds the dog’s collar while the other person dashes off and hides.
• Both people should stuff their pockets with great treats.  As soon as the person finds a fun hiding spot they should call the dog and encourage him with every step “Rover, Come…good boy, come, good boy, good boy, good boy COME!”  this excitement and encouragement gives him the motivation to find you.
• When he finds you, praise him and give him a treat while person #2 dashes off to hide.
• Repeat this process.  In the beginning, I like to hide in easy spots, like just in the next room, as play continues I enjoy hiding in funny places like in the bathtub, under the table or in his crate.  The one rule, have fun and enjoy, your dog has a sense of humor, make him laugh!

I also like to hide my dog’s toys and teach him to find them.  Find your dog’s favorite toy, first I like to wave it around in front of him to get him excited.  Next I hide it in an easy spot, beside me or behind me and tell him to find it.  Praise him and you can even give him a treat when he finds his toy.  Next try hiding the toy in a more precarious but semi-easy place.  You may have to use a helper or tell your dog to stay as you hide his toy.

• During this stage I hide the toy so it just sticks out and is barely visible.  Once he has mastered this process begin to hide the toy better so that he cannot see it.  Tell him to find it.  You may have to follow behind or walk past the toy to help him at first.  Don’t show him where it is, just stand near and encourage him to look or sniff for it.  The next step is to hide the toy on all different levels in your home.
• Don’t just hide the toy on the floor or in one room, also utilize higher surfaces like book shelves or chairs, next move it even higher and perhaps even out of his reach.  Challenge his brain so that he never knows where his toy might be.  Sometimes, I even hide it in my pocket or in other silly places.  Have a good time, mix it up and enjoy bonding.
• The next and final stage is to use a specific name for specific toys.  This gives you the option to hide 2 toys at once and ask for him to bring you one.  I like this game because I can hide a few toys and sit and watch TV while he has to go and find them!

There are many things to do inside to entertain yourself and your four legged friend when the weather is bad!  Teach your dog  a trick!  Let me know what trick you would like to teach your dog!!

Don’t let the weather get you down, grab your best friend and play some games, if you do this you will build a bond that lasts a lifetime!

Indoor Doggy Games is a post from: Dog Obedience Training Blog

courtesy of www.dogblog.dogster.com

They say “Music soothes the savage beast.”  Yes, I realize that is a misquote; it is actually “Music hath powers to soothe the savage breast.” However, I believe in this case, we’ll go with the first one.  Now, perhaps you don’t consider your sweet little pooch to be savage, but then again…

Dogster Exclusive Interview: Calming Dog Musician, Lisa Spector

by Maria Goodavage

Dogster’s for the love of the dog blog

We’ve got another terrific interview for you this week, with Lisa Spector, concert pianist and graduate of The Juilliard School.

“But this is DOGster, not MUSICster,” you might say. True. Fortunately for us, Lisa has a foot in both camps.

Lisa is co-founder of BioAcoustic Research & Development, where she presided over the groundbreaking music and canine research conducted with 150 dogs. She is the pianist on the Through a Dog’s Ear music series. If you have a dog who could use a little calming at home or in the car, these CDs are for you.

Lisa has won first prizes in prestigious national piano competitions and performs concert tours internationally, so dogs and people lucky enough to hear her music are in for a treat. Click here for a few free downloads and samples of her calming music for dogs.

Read the rest of Maria’s article

Tunes for your Dog is a post from: Dog Obedience Training Blog

Stop the devocalization of dogs in your state

by Stephanie Modkins, February 1, 2010

Dogs Examiner

Did you know that some breeders and canine owners devocalize their dogs in order to reduce the sound of their barks? Sound strange? Seem barbaric? Well, it is. For this reason, passing a bill in your state that sets parameters for this type of sugary is a must.

Overview of devocalization

During the process of devocalizing a dog, a veterinarian surgically alters a canine’s voice box. This procedure permanently reduces the volume and pitch of a dog’s bark making it sound more like a hoarse or whisper. The side effects of this kind of surgery are infections, laryngeal paralysis and airway stenosis. Devocalized dogs often struggle with eating and drinking. Also, they can’t defend themselves or alert an owner of trouble because they can’t be heard from far away. These side effects, of course, are life altering ones resulting in a lower quality of existence for a dog. (See video below.)

For video and rest of  Stephanie’s article.

Devocalization of Dogs is a post from: Dog Obedience Training Blog

How To Calm Down HYPER dogs

*** Question From A Reader ***

My 1 year old pup, Indo is very hyper.  I am still having problems with jumping on people and just going bonkers when she sees anyone or any other animal. As far as the people go, she just loves people and I did not train her properly about jumping up when I first got her at 4 months old.  Then I found the clicker…and positive reinforcement really works…but I am still going through the training and I still cannot control her, especially when her favorite people come by. 

I live where I work, so my Dad and all of my coworkers are considered her family. And everyday, she goes nuts when everyone comes to say hello to her or come near her.  She will sit, then they get to pet her, but then she jumps up and freaks out, lays on the ground at their feet and kicks like a cat….goofy thing!!  Do you have any advice for an older dog that was trained poorly?  Any tricks beside repetition, cause we are doing that! 

 Thank You  Meredith 

>>> My Comments:

You’ve got a SUPER common problem Meredith, and one that can easily be fixed.

First lets talk about WHY your dog is hyper, and then I’ll address how to fix it.

You see, there is a law in training that not many people talk about that says, “When you train a behavior, you ALSO train the dog to feel the emotions he felt while you trained the behavior.”

And whether you like it or not, ALL daily interactions with your dog are training sessions.

He’s either being trained to ignore you, being trained to get excited, or being trained to do a hundred thousand other things.

But he’s ALWAYS being trained.

So when you say that “she goes nuts when everyone comes to say hello to her or come near her.”  That tells me something.

BECAUSE your dog *really* likes people, it’s an exciting thing for her to interact with them… maybe more exciting then anything else. 

Heck it’s probably SO exciting that it’s worth getting yelled at or swatted, or ignoring your “OFF” commands for just a few seconds of interaction with people.

Which means we have a problem…

We have a SELF reinforcing behavior.

Meaning that we have a behavior (greeting strangers) that is so rewarding, every interaction with strangers is being rewarded.

And another proven dog training LAW says that any behavior that is rewarded will increase it’s likely hood to continue.

So knowing this law, the only way to fix your problem is to completely cut off your dogs ability to get at it’s reward… (aka. people)

I’m not saying we cut your dog off from the world by isolating them, but we need to set some new rules for your dog that withhold any interaction with people, until she’s behaving calmly– so that the dog learns the only way to get what it wants is to stay calm.

Whereas right now, the best way to get what it wants is to get excited.

So how can you teach your dog this behavior?

I did an entire interview with a dog training expert in my interview series called “The Greatest Minds Of Hands Off Dog Training”, which you can add to your order in the checkout process when buying my “Hands Off Dog Training Program”, here:

My “Hands Off” Dog Training Program

It’s a GREAT interview and one worth listening to as it address all the different techniques for fixing your type of problem.

*** Question From A Reader ***

Hi [Chet],
 
I have watched your videos with enthusiasm… thanks. I have a PROBLEM. I recently (last week) bought twp German shepherd pups brother and sister. They fight each other a lot; viciously and I have to stop them with water. I feel really awful doing it. Today I gave them both a bone and they went mad for each other again. I took the bones away. Now they are in separate corners of the room looking sheepish. I have to go to work soon and am worried what state they will be in when I get home. The little girl doesn’t leave the poor boy alone. They are 10 weeks old.
What shall I do???

Thanks Nicola

>>> My Comments:

Nicola, this is a CRITICAL stage of life for your pups, where they will acquire many of their behavior characteristics and learn what is appropriate and inappropriate behavior.

And the answer to your problem, as much as it pains me, is NOT in my training course, or at least not yet

Because the hands down BEST thing you can do for your dogs right now is get them to interact with other, what I call “Mentor” dogs. 

A “Mentor” dog is an older dog who can teach your pup what is and what is NOT appropriate behavior.

Normally this is taught to a pup like yours by its mother and other litter or pack mates — or at least that’s optimal way.

I made sure my own Golden Retriever was purchased from a place where all the pups, along with their Mother, and two uncles.  It was a good mix of older dogs who can teach them what is and isn’t ok in the “dog to dog” etiquette world.

Some things are best taught by other dogs, and taught at a young age.

So what I did, when I took my Golden Retriever away from his Mother and litter mates at about 10 weeks old, was I immediately introduced him to every “WELL SOCIALIZED” dog on the planet.

And more importantly, I found a good Doggy Day care that I could take my dog to where *pre-approved* to be good players, were all allowed to interact freely with each other in a HUGE play yard.

In my case, I was able to put my little guy in a pen with tons of nice German Shepherds, Rottweilers, Labs and tons of other breeds of dog, who taught my dog how to play nice.

And you need to do the same.

Do whatever it takes to put your dog in an environment where he can play nicely with LOTS of dogs at the same time, and let those dogs teach him the ropes.

Nobody can teach a young pup to behave nicely with other dogs… then other nice dogs.

-Chet

P.S.  Do you have a question or success story you’d like me to share or address in this newsletter?  If so please email your questions or stories to info@thedogtrainingsecret.com and I’ll try to answer your question in one of my upcoming newsletters?

How To Calm A Dog Down is a post from: Dog Obedience Training Blog