Archive for the ‘Uncategorized’ Category

Puppy Nipping: How To REALLY Stop It

Friday, September 11th, 2009

If your looking for one of the best strategies for how to stop puppy nipping quickly… without having to resort to hitting, yelling or getting all bent out of shape towards your dog, read this question that I’ve answered from one of my dog training clients:

*** Question From A Client ***

Hi Chet,

I recently purchased your dog training videos online.  I am working through them but I am having quite a difficult time with bite inhibition on hands, clothes, legs you get the idea. I am not sure if I expect too much or am doing something incorrect.  My puppy is an 11 week old Chocolate lab. If you have any pointers I would really appreciate them.

Thank you,

Nadine Cressman

>>> My Comments:

I’ve got two comments for you Nadine,

First off, you should find it helpful to realize that all puppies nip, and it’s normal.

And it’s helpful to realize that just like a human babies needs to chew on things when they’re cutting their first teeth, a puppy has the same needs.

This means that your puppy finds it extremely rewarding to chew, so getting rid of your dogs desire to chew is probably not going to happen.

Instead we want to try to direct your dog to chew things that we think are OK to chew on, which means you’re REALLY going to want to stock up on a variety of dog toys from Kongs, to hard rubber chew toys, balls etc.

Get your dog as many chew toys as possible, the first step to fixing nipping is making sure he has toys to chew on.

The second thing you’ll find it helpful to know is that your dog thinks chewing is FUN too, and your puppy is really just trying to play with you when he nips at a young age.

REMEMBER, when ever we can find the dogs true motivation for doing a behavior is when we have the strongest ability to control his behavior.

In this case, since we know that your dog wants to have fun, we can make sure that when he’s behaving the way we want him to (ie. not nipping) we play with him…

And the second he breaks our rules of play by nipping, we stand up, turn around and ignore him… thus withholding the one thing he wants more then anything — YOUR ATTENTION!

Keep ignoring your dog until he stops looking at you and wondering why you stopped playing, and then go back down and start playing with him again.

This will teach your puppy that nipping means the fun ends… so as long as he likes playing with you he’ll eventually stop nipping because he wants to keep playing.

It’s a gentle approach that doesn’t require you to yell, hit or get all bent out of shape trying to reprimand your dog for nipping too hard, and it’s VERY effective.

>IMPORTANT: If you do not already have my Hands Off Dog Training program it is a must have for all puppy owners.  Getting a puppy trained right while he’s still young is the STRONGEST way to make sure he doesn’t develop problems like aggression, or out of control behaviors in the future.

You can learn more about my Hands Off dog training program by clicking here:

http://thedogtrainingsecret.com

Hopefully that helps!

-Chet

P.S. If you tried this technique and it worked for you, tell me about it, I’d love to share your success with other readers to help motivate them to want to fix their dog’s problems too!

Just send your story to info@thedogtrainingsecret.com and I’ll include it in a future newsletter.

What’s The BEST Pet Urine Eliminating Product?

Wednesday, August 26th, 2009

I need your feedback!

With all the new companies who’ve created the so called “Final Cure” for completely removing pet urine… I thought it was time to get the strait truth from people who REALLY know what products workbest …. YOU!

If you’ve used a Urine Eliminating product recently and it’s either worked for you or NOT worked for you, please leave a reply at the bottom of this post sharing your *honest* opinion about the best or worst pet urine removing product you’ve tried.

I’m really looking forward to your feedback!

-Chet

Submit Your Speed Of Implementation Videos:

Tuesday, August 18th, 2009

Please use this form to send in your “Before” and/or “After” videos showing the results of your dogs before before you got our course, and the results you achieved within 30 days.

Video Reveals: #1 Mistake To NEVER Make If You Want Your Dog To Come When You Call

Monday, July 13th, 2009

Play the video below to learn how to program your dog to come EVERY time you call him… no matter how distracted he is, or how bad he doesn’t want to come



Enjoy The Video!

Chet

P.S. Click here to learn more dog training techniques!

Over 498 Dog Owners Are Begging For This…

Sunday, February 8th, 2009

A little over a month ago I posted a question on my blog to see if there was an interest in people going through a weekly “Virtual Video Training” Program For Dogs, that teaches your dog how to:

  1. Greet ANY stranger in a friendly manner — whether out in public or at your front door
  2. Training your dog to sit calmly every time you or friends go to pet him
  3. Behave Perfectly on walks, whether on or off leash… and completely stop pulling
  4. How to walk your dog through a crowd of people and maintain complete control
  5. How to stay sitting or laying down in one place when you REALLY need him to
  6. Strategies for getting him to come WHENEVER he’s called… no matter how much he doesn’t want to
  7. Training drills to teach your dog to be NICE to other dogs
  8. How to get your dog to pay attention to you… and NEVER get distracted… even in chaotic environments
  9. Plus strategies for teaching your dog to behave himself in your home when you are NOT there.

And to put it bluntly, my blog got slammed with over 498 comments from people dying for an online training class where I would teach a new lesson each week in webinar format… & give weekly homework assignments for EXACTLY what to train your dog that week.

But the part that REALLY got people excited was that on top of the weekly trainings, I’m also going to provide every person a video camera to record each training session and send in for a training critique each week.

I mean let’s face it…

Even if you’ve taken your dog to a great local trainer who can get your dog to perform in a classroom setting, the real tough part is getting your dog to behave in the REAL world, where they’re distractions, territorial issues, and REAL life keeping you from finally having success with your dog.

So I thought the BEST way for me to help you get your dog to obey in the REAL world, was if I could actually see your dog on video, how he was reacting to each weeks training lessons, and give tips that way…

… tips that would be custom fit for your dog’s unique environment!

So here’s the deal.

I’m going to be opening up registration for this new coaching class some time next week, and I’m expecting it to sell out pretty fast.

So if you’re even a little interested in participating in this group coaching program, or you’d like to learn more details about this program, you’re going to want to fill out your first name and valid email address into the form at the end of this post.

Don’t worry, signing up for this early-notification list doesn’t mean you’re committing to the program.

But filling out this form will put you on my early-bird notification list, which get’s you 1st access to this coaching program when it opens.

Plus… I’ll be releasing more details about what I’ll be covering in this new program to everyone who fills out the form, like how it works, what format, etc.

So if you’re interested in learning more about his Virtual Video Training program for dogs, and getting first access to registration, here’s the form:

Contact Information
First Name *
Last Name *
Email *

Become A Pack Leader: The “No FREE Lunch” Principle

Tuesday, December 9th, 2008

Have you ever wished you had more control of your dog?

Do you wish he didn’t get overly excited for visitors, constantly barking when they come to the door, or jumping on them when they come inside your home?

Do you wish he would always listen to you… even when he’s heavily distracted or excited?

What if I told you if you changed just one thing in your dog’s life, you’d have a more manageable dog who behaves himself ALL the time.

Would you want to know what to change?

Let me explain…

You see, every animal in this world comes from a long genetic background that heavily influences how the animal thinks.  Some animals have evolved to be self sufficient and can survive on their own; where an animal like a dog isn’t genetically coded to do well on it’s own.

Dog’s live in packs.

And centuries of breeding and evolving have given dogs the tools they need to stay alive in a pack situation.  They’ve learned skills like:

How to tell what dog in the pack calls the shots

Who’s going to lead the hunting party for food tonight

Social skills at reading their pack members moods

When to leave certain dogs alone.

So thousands of years of breeding has taught your dog a thing or two about the best ways to stay alive in this world and maintain order in a pack situation.  In a VERY real sense this skill set is a “Pack Language” and…

… all dog’s know THIS “Pack Language”

And one of the most IMPORTANT principals of the “Pack Language” that your dog is genetically programmed to follow, is the concept of following, obeying & respecting the leader of the pack.

So here’s the deal… all dogs get confused when their humans, (YOU) don’t ALSO know and understand at least a little bit of this Pack language.

And if you don’t make an attempt to learn a few words and concepts of this “Pack Language” you’re probably going to run into some problems controlling your dog.

Because you’ll be sending him mixed signals!

You’ll try to use HUMAN words to get him to do things, instead of using “Pack Language” words, behaviors and mannerisms to get obedience.

Here’s a few examples of what I mean…

Example #1) The leaders of a dog pack all sleep together, while the puppies and other dog’s do NOT.  So just the act of letting your dog crawl in bed with you every night to you means that you’re being nice to your dog…

… but in “Pack Language” it means he’s a pack leader too

Example #2) In the wild, a hunting party of Wolves (where all dog’s originally came from) will let the leader of the pack lead the hunting party.

He runs at the front of the pack.

So if you’re letting your dog walk through a door, or always pull on the leash, in “Pack Language” you’re sending a VERY clear message to your dog that he’s the one running the show… NOT you.

Example #3) One of the roles of a leader of the pack is to protect the pack from danger.  He protects the packs territory, and scares off or attacks intruders.

So when your dog is barking, snarling, or growling at intruders, in Pack language you’re letting him take on the role of the leader of the pack by LETTING him PROTECT your home.

And the REAL problem is…

That by letting your dog be the LEADER of your home, he automatically behaves more defiantly.  Leaders lead, they don’t follow orders from others.

So what can you do with your dog to start regaining the leadership role in your home, get your dog to let go of his leadership roles and finally let you take the reigns?

What I recommend to most of my clients, and the strategy that seems to help transfer leadership of your home BACK to you and away from your dog is teaching your dog “there is no such thing as a free lunch”.

And I call this the “No Free Lunch Plan”

What is a No Free Lunch Plan?

It means that VERY literally, for your dog to get ANYTHING it wants it has to earn it.

If it wants to go outside it has to learn that it CAN go play outside, and even get extra rewards and play time outside… but only if he waits at the door UNTIL you give him permission to go outside.

It means that in order to go to the bathroom he has to ask you if he can go outside by rining a bell.

If he wants to be pet, he has to sit or lay down first.

It means that you shouldn’t let your dog have access to a full food bowl all day long… instead he should have feeding times, and he should have to sit, or hold a stay or perform some other type of behavior to earn the right to eat.

I realize this may sound a bit more disciplinarian that you might like, or be comfortable with.

You might not want your dog to be handled this way.

You may like being able to greet an excited dog by giving him a hug, or kissing his face or wrestling with him.  You may think it’s mean to leave him hungry and not have food all day.

But you NEED to remember that your dog does NOT speak ENGLISH as a 2nd language.  He speaks “Pack Language”… and he’s not really good at learning new languages, especially ours.

So we need to get better at learning their languages.

We need to start realizing that dogs will either treat you as a pack leader or they’ll BECOME the pack leader.  And you can either leave this to chance, or you can take active steps to determine which kind of dog yours will be.

You’ll find that some dogs will let you take charge easily, while others will be more defiant.

But just be observant.

Watch for your dog taking the leadership role.

And do your BEST to learn how to stop these behaviors before they start. And of course, you could start learning how to do this in my Hands Off Dog Training Program:

Hands Off Dog Training Program

Hope You Found This Helpful!

Happy Training,

Chet Womach