7 Dog Training “Brain Games” Calming Down OVER-Excited Dogs

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Dog Training Brain Games

Do you have a dog who goes BALLISTIC when he sees certain things in his life?

Does he get WAAAAY too excited around other dogs, animals or new people who come over?

If so then you’ll be happy to know that there are actually 7 proven Brain Training games that can help your dog learn to control their OVER-REACTIVE impulses…

Why 7?

Because a dog’s brain is usually most IMPULSIVE around these 7 different types of scenarios:

  1. Being TOO excited to see YOU
  2. Being TOO excited to see other DOGS (or animals in general)
  3. Being TOO excited to eat
  4. Being TOO excited to play
  5. Being TOO excited to chase
  6. Being TOO excited to meet GUESTS
  7. Being TOO excited when “let loose”

So in this first article in our Impulse Control series, we’re going to show you the FIRST clever little game your dog needs to learn if he’s ever going to learn how to contain his excitement around those things in his world that get him WAY too excited.

I’m talking about…

Training Your Dog How To Disengage, Look-A-Way & Ignore Things That Set Him Off

Here’s why this skill is SO important…

I don’t know exactly why, but for some reason when a dog, who has not yet learned Impulse Control, locks onto a TARGET… he goes deaf to all your commands… making it impossible to get through to him so he can start behaving again.

  • These types of dogs DON’T stop barking when told to be quiet
  • They don’t take it easy when they’re owners say “It’s OK”
  • They ignore their owners pleas of OFF or DOWN when they jump up

… and I could go on and on.

Which means the FIRST skill you need to teach your dog, before you ever try to teach him to be quiet, quit lunging at other dogs who get to close while out on a walk, or to stop jumping up on you when you come home, is how to NEVER lock on in the first place.

And to teach your dog this skill I introduce to you…

The “Look-Away-Game”

Training Dogs How To STOP Locking Onto Targets That Make Them Go Deaf To Your Commands

Here’s a little video that shows you the first steps for how to train your dog this game:

[Download Phase II Of This Exercise Here]

Or if you’re not the kind of person who likes the ‘Cliff-notes’ version of videos, here’s a little guide we created for setting up this exercise, along with the 3 step process for how to teach your dog the first phase of this game.




Do not make the mistake of thinking that just because this exercise looks simple to train, that it won’t DRAMATICALLY change your dog’s behavior.

In fact, Debbie, the gal in the video above, is a professional Dog Walker by trade who uses this game as the foundation for how she takes her clients completely untrained, reactive dogs, and gets them to walk in packs of up to 10 dogs at a time so well… that they can walk right by other dogs without ANY of the dogs hardly giving the stranger’s dog a second glance… and all without eventually needing to use treats or a clicker.

Sound To Good To Be True?

Its not, and here’s a video she sent me that proves it!

Pretty cool, right?

I sure thought so.

Which is why we’ve decided to publish this Impulse Control Article Series, as well as start to release our FREE guides on how to teach your dog these Impulse Control games.

So if you haven’t done so already, click here to download your copy of “The Look-A-Way” game, so you can start transforming your dog’s ability to control his Impulses today.

Or if you’re the kind of person who just likes to cut to the chase, you should check out the course we offer below…


There are 32 Comments

  1. Would this work for a reactive dog with humans walking towards us too?


    Minette Reply:

    If you stick to the program and learn to do this before the trigger gets too overwhelming, yes!


  2. Helen B-Mills says:

    Thank you so much for this. I homed a 7 year old dog from the SPCA who is aggressive with other dogs in their garden which makes walking in my town a bit of a nightmare. Also a little sod to other dogs at the beach. He is on lead and if off lead dogs run up to greet it will quickly turn to biffo!
    I’m looking forward to trying this tomorrow. Any suggestions of how to go about it without a clicker. Tama cringed the first time I used it with him so I haven’t tried again.
    Thanks again guys.


  3. Christine Judd says:

    hm he is a rescue and it is already pretty overhwleming..he used to be the same with dogs but is fine with them now as i have spent a lot of time socialising him. but people just freak him out


  4. Helen says:


    I’m in the UK and trying to pick up the programme as my dog really needs it around horses, but when I click on the link it just goes to a blank page.


    Dana Reply:

    I am so sorry for that. The sales page is located here: http://thedogtrainingsecret.com/braingames/. Once the video on the sales page has played all the way through (on its own, without it being fast forwarded), an order button does show up and takes you to the order page https://how2publishing.clickfunnels.com/order-form10277389. I am so sorry if this did not show up for you.


  5. Pippa says:

    What do I do if my dog (husky cross) is not interested in food at all when out.

    Or is it just that I still haven’t found the right food for training?


  6. RTV says:

    Nice program.
    I have been trying this on my 7 month old high energy golden puppy who gets way, way too excited at new people, dogs and anything else thats new.
    She will respond well and turn her head for the treat but then immediately turn back to the object and strain and pull on the leash towards it. Repeat click, treat, she turns for the treat then right back to the object, etc.

    Especially difficult in the house if someone comes over and theres no way to put more distance between them and us.
    Would love any suggestions for this problem child.


  7. Diane Blyth says:

    Is there a way the clicker can work on coming home to your dogs which are crated whilst out but all bark with excitement the 2 nd the key hits the door!


  8. Sharon says:

    I would start making her wait for a second or two before she actually gets the treat. So…you notice the trigger, you get ready to click, she notices the trigger, you click immediately and wait as she turns for her treat instead of immediately giving it to her. Then maybe toss the treat a few feet in the opposite direction of the trigger, to get her moving and looking away from the trigger and towards you.


  9. Michelle says:

    I make a clicking sound with my mouth when I don’t have a clicker. Seems to work (so long as we are well away from the trigger!). My guess is that it’s the simple sound that the dog can associate with. A clicker is fast, and I think from what I’ve been reading is the key. I’m learning all this with my dog too, so willing to try! And persevere even though it’s hard sometimes!


  10. Ellen Oderman says:

    I also found my rescued dog cringes when he hears the clicker. I tried using a high pitched yip sound that I would nit normally make but that also concerned him. When he first came to us he was very afraid of anything connected to hunting because his first family dumped him in the woods at the opening of hunting season. Before that, he lived inside and spent a lot of time in a crate. He came to us 18 months ago when he was 11 months old after surviving in the woods for about three weeks. He is a Border Collie/German Shepherd mix and is a wonderful dog in many ways. We are retired and live on a farm, so we have been able to work through lots of his fears, but I need to help him learn to look a way. If he is not super excited, he will look at me when I tell him to and point to my face. We practice this everyday. If a threat is far enough away he will get close to me, look up for direction and do what I tell him to do. What would you suggest I use to get him to release the target when the situation is more intense and the above efforts fail?


    Minette Reply:

    read this http://www.thedogtrainingsecret.com/blog/dog-terrified-clicker/


  11. Melanie says:

    I have learned how SERIOUS they are when trainers say “high value” treats, with my girl! I work at a dog daycare that offers training from several different professional trainers, and have taken a couple classes with my mixed breed. I learned quickly that it can’t just be a crunchy or chewy “store-bought” treat, especially for a highly reactive pooch. Find something he/she REALLY wants, that they literally salivate over, haha!
    Our trainers use hot dogs, cheese, chicken, roast beef, pretty much the “people” food mine rarely get. I guess it’s kinda like us getting a “gourmet” meal instead of a tv dinner, lol!


  12. Roy Collins says:

    How do I keep my dog from barking continues when I take him for a ride. He loves to ride, but he barks the whole trip. I do not know how to break him of this.


    Minette Reply:

    search our articles for barking in the car


  13. Sofia says:

    Hi, I think there was a article about teaching self control to puppies? might be worth looking at that as well xx


  14. Gina Podwika says:

    I have a sheltie who is now 8 years old and is a constant barker. You can’t even play ball with her because she barks consistently. She just loves to bark. I’ve tried everything. Suggestion??


  15. Barbara says:

    My German shepherd barks at the TV only when commercials come on. He knows all of them that have an animal in them as soon as the intro music starts and runs from wherever he is in the house to bark at the tv until commercial ends. He will actually lay and watch tv when in the same room. He also barks at other animal programs..


  16. rebecca devereux says:

    i am beginning these games to redirect but i would like to know how to react to the behaviors in between “training” sessions. example: i am reading, she is quiet. she hears a car in the driveway and goes ballistic. how should i react, at that moment, since she has not mastered her impulse control?


  17. Nila says:

    Use a clicker with a softer click or use a pen cap-softer click. You can also use a tongue click.


    Minette Reply:

    artificial means is always better than your mouth


  18. Cathi says:

    My dog is a rescue but I got her at 8 weeks. She hates car rides and we like to go camping and that means riding in the motorhome. She pants, shakes and tries to hide. She will not eat or drink while vehicle is running.


  19. sue says:

    hi, one of our english staffies has started to go outside and bark at nothing when we put their food down for dinner, we have three staffies, mother Grace 4 years{ she”s the one barking} then her son cooper he”s two years 4months and then there”s Blue Jasmine, Jaz for short and she:s nearly two years old there”s 6 months between the last two dogs. then theres a problem with Jaz jumps up and on me to try and get the treats in between getting her to learn something, do you have any idea what i can do about that please. Sue


  20. Penny Mendham says:

    I have a reactive dog (GSD) not viscous just wants to bound up to everyone and everything, he is NOT food orientated how would I do the clicker and treat with him?


    Minette Reply:

    All dogs are food motivated http://www.thedogtrainingsecret.com/blog/hungry-dog-isnt-bad/


  21. Patti says:

    So right now my dog barks, lunges at some dogs, not all. I have been bringing treats in wax paper, just cuz messy. Most times now when we see another dog, he will look at me, I go to get a treat and The paper crunches, then I stop and give him me. There are some dogs he is more insistent with, but on a whole this works. I will switch to a clicker, should I? Am I on the right path here? Thanks.


  22. The clicker is just a marker, establish a marker word like “yes!” In its place.


    Minette Reply:

    Yes but science has proven that it is a clearer and markedly better marker than using your voice!


  23. Mary K. says:

    I have a reactive dog and this is interesting but it goes against what I thought clicker training did — that the click marked “yes” with a treat to follow. This seems opposite – you are clicking locking on to a target. It’s when he looks back to you that he’s doing right. Does this mess up clicker training for other things?


  24. Gay Horman says:

    I tired different types of treats with my German Shepherd and he would eat them but lose interest in training. In till I bought chicken liver and boiled it, I freeze it in a baggie and get out just enough for each session. Bonus : it is an inexpensive treat


  25. Wendy McIntosh says:

    my dog has learnt to do this perfectly when I deliberately drop some of his food on the floor during training times but if I am cutting food (mine) on the bench and a bit drops off he bounces on it with lightning tapped. He seems to know the difference between “training times” and random opportunities. Not only with this but in other exercises as well!


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